In my last couple of posts, I mentioned that we were traveling to Cuba to meet our family there for the first time. The trip to Cuba was long and complicated but well worth it! It turned out to be one of the most memorable experiences of our entire trip.
Background
Before I describe our experience in Cuba, I thought it would be helpful to provide some context.
My mother was born in Havana, Cuba in the 1950's. During the Cuban revolution, right after Castro nationalized all private property in the country, my grandparents left Cuba for the USA with my mother and uncle, and my grandmother's parents. They were only allowed to bring one suitcase of clothing each and $5 per person. They left everything else behind, including many family members who stayed in Cuba. Eventually my grandparents settled in Puerto Rico, where my grandmother continued her career as a teacher and my grandfather, an architect, built a successful contracting business. This is a familiar story for many Cubans. Many of my grandparents' family and friends eventually left the country and started new lives all over of the world.
My grandparents still have close family members living in Cuba, most of whom, still live in the same homes their parents and grandparents lived in before them. My grandmother is still in touch with our family in Cuba and has even gone back once to visit. Prior to our arrival, she called ahead to let them know we would be visiting.
Because things in Cuba haven't changed much since the 50's, we were able to get a good idea of what Havana would have looked like when my mom and grandparents lived there (though the buildings are much more run down now than they were back then). Our family members in Cuba still have lots of old photographs and newspaper clippings of my mother, grandparents, and great grandparents during their youth. These were things I'd never seen before, since my grandparents couldn't take them when they left Cuba.
So here is part of their story. Meet my grandparents:
Background
Before I describe our experience in Cuba, I thought it would be helpful to provide some context.
My mother was born in Havana, Cuba in the 1950's. During the Cuban revolution, right after Castro nationalized all private property in the country, my grandparents left Cuba for the USA with my mother and uncle, and my grandmother's parents. They were only allowed to bring one suitcase of clothing each and $5 per person. They left everything else behind, including many family members who stayed in Cuba. Eventually my grandparents settled in Puerto Rico, where my grandmother continued her career as a teacher and my grandfather, an architect, built a successful contracting business. This is a familiar story for many Cubans. Many of my grandparents' family and friends eventually left the country and started new lives all over of the world.
My grandparents still have close family members living in Cuba, most of whom, still live in the same homes their parents and grandparents lived in before them. My grandmother is still in touch with our family in Cuba and has even gone back once to visit. Prior to our arrival, she called ahead to let them know we would be visiting.
Because things in Cuba haven't changed much since the 50's, we were able to get a good idea of what Havana would have looked like when my mom and grandparents lived there (though the buildings are much more run down now than they were back then). Our family members in Cuba still have lots of old photographs and newspaper clippings of my mother, grandparents, and great grandparents during their youth. These were things I'd never seen before, since my grandparents couldn't take them when they left Cuba.
So here is part of their story. Meet my grandparents:
My grandparents: Susana Bertha "Baby" de la Cuesta y Alvarez & José L. "Bebo" Hernández y Suárez
My grandparents on their wedding day in Miramar, Havana, Cuba December 21, 1952
My Grandmother's Side - de la Cuesta
My grandmother's great-great-great grandfather was a notable figure in Cuban and Spanish history. His name was Santiago de la Cuesta y Manzanal and he was a Spanish count, holding the title Conde de la Reunion de Cuba. He came to Cuba in 1790 from northern Spain at the age of 12 with his older brother Pedro, who was 22. The two became very successful businessmen. Pedro died sometime between 1820 and 1833 without children, leaving Santiago with the business. In 1824, the Spanish King Ferdinand VII gave Santiago the title Conde de la Reunion de Cuba. Santiago married Concepción González Larrinaga, the daughter of one of the wealthiest families in Cuba and thus grew his business and position in Cuban society even further. The family owned several successful businesses across different industries in Cuba and by the 1830's the fortunes of Santiago were ranked as third in the country.
My grandmother's great-great-great grandfather was a notable figure in Cuban and Spanish history. His name was Santiago de la Cuesta y Manzanal and he was a Spanish count, holding the title Conde de la Reunion de Cuba. He came to Cuba in 1790 from northern Spain at the age of 12 with his older brother Pedro, who was 22. The two became very successful businessmen. Pedro died sometime between 1820 and 1833 without children, leaving Santiago with the business. In 1824, the Spanish King Ferdinand VII gave Santiago the title Conde de la Reunion de Cuba. Santiago married Concepción González Larrinaga, the daughter of one of the wealthiest families in Cuba and thus grew his business and position in Cuban society even further. The family owned several successful businesses across different industries in Cuba and by the 1830's the fortunes of Santiago were ranked as third in the country.
de la Cuesta coat of arms
The former house of the Condesa de la Reunion (Countess of the Reunion - wife of Santiago). Currently, this is a foundation dedicated to the famous writer Alejo Carpentier, who wrote several novels while living here in the 20th century.
This plaque is inside the building pictured above.
The history between Santiago de la Cuesta Manazanal and my great-grandfather Pedro de la Cuesta is not well-documented. According to my grandmother, Santiago's descendants maintained his title Conde de la Reunion de Cuba until her great uncle spent most of the family fortune on lavish parties. When there wasn't much money left, he sold the title. I found this family tree that documents the de la Cuesta family through 1988 (I'm listed as Eva Alexandra Wallman y Hernandez de la Cuesta. Quite a long name!)
Fast forward to the 1930's-50's. My grandmother's father, Pedro de la Cuesta, a successful real estate agent in Havana, married Carmen Alvarez and then my grandmother came along in 1930. Pedro's brother and Carmen's sister were married to each other and had two sons, the younger of whom - Guillermo - is close in age to my grandmother. So my grandmother and Guille are "double cousins" and grew up like brother and sister. My grandparents married in 1952 and then Guille and his wife, Marlene, married several years later. My mother was the flower girl at their wedding! Guille and his wife, Marlene, were also fantastic dancers and traveled to New York in the late 50's to perform at the Waldorf Astoria and on the Steve Allen show.
Fast forward to the 1930's-50's. My grandmother's father, Pedro de la Cuesta, a successful real estate agent in Havana, married Carmen Alvarez and then my grandmother came along in 1930. Pedro's brother and Carmen's sister were married to each other and had two sons, the younger of whom - Guillermo - is close in age to my grandmother. So my grandmother and Guille are "double cousins" and grew up like brother and sister. My grandparents married in 1952 and then Guille and his wife, Marlene, married several years later. My mother was the flower girl at their wedding! Guille and his wife, Marlene, were also fantastic dancers and traveled to New York in the late 50's to perform at the Waldorf Astoria and on the Steve Allen show.
Guille and Marlene on their wedding day
My mother (on the right) as a flower girl at Guille & Marlene's wedding.
Marlene's bridal shower. My grandmother is the second lady from the right and Marlene is standing. For other family members who are reading: Olga is second on the left followed by Mirtica and Ninfa.
Fast forward again to 1960 - my grandparents left Cuba for the US with my mom and uncle and my grandmother's parents. Guille remained in Cuba with his family. Since the relationship between Cuba and the US has been tumultuous since the Cuban revolution, it hasn't been easy to travel between the two countries. Therefore, my grandmother has only seen Guille and his family in person a few times since she left.
Dinner with the de la Cuestas
After arriving in Havana, I was very excited to finally meet everyone! One evening, they invited us over to their house for a delicious dinner prepared by their daughter, Miriam. She made us a typical Cuban meal - pork, rice, and black beans and it was fabulous (especially the flavor of the black beans). We met Guille, Marlene, their daughters, grand children and great grand children. We spent lots of time talking about family, looking through old photos and newspaper clippings and discussing life in Cuba.
Dinner with the de la Cuestas
After arriving in Havana, I was very excited to finally meet everyone! One evening, they invited us over to their house for a delicious dinner prepared by their daughter, Miriam. She made us a typical Cuban meal - pork, rice, and black beans and it was fabulous (especially the flavor of the black beans). We met Guille, Marlene, their daughters, grand children and great grand children. We spent lots of time talking about family, looking through old photos and newspaper clippings and discussing life in Cuba.
Me with Miriam, Guille & Marlene
Chris with Miriam & Marlen
My cousin Maria Karla with her adorable daughters - Maia (baby) and Maria Alejandra
with Maria Karla
My Grandfather's Side - Hernández
My grandfather's grandfather was a man named José L. Hernández Guzman and he ran several large newspapers in Cuba at the turn of the century, the largest of which was called La Lucha.
His son José L. Hernández Bauza was known for his talents in taxidermy, particularly with birds. Everyone who knew him said he had a natural talent for putting life back into dead birds. His animals are still on display at a museum in Havana and he's been referenced in several bird books.
Both men wore wire-framed tinted glasses all the time - even in an oil portrait!
My grandfather's grandfather was a man named José L. Hernández Guzman and he ran several large newspapers in Cuba at the turn of the century, the largest of which was called La Lucha.
His son José L. Hernández Bauza was known for his talents in taxidermy, particularly with birds. Everyone who knew him said he had a natural talent for putting life back into dead birds. His animals are still on display at a museum in Havana and he's been referenced in several bird books.
Both men wore wire-framed tinted glasses all the time - even in an oil portrait!
José L. Hernández Guzman - the newspaper man
José L. Hernández Guzman
José L. Hernández Guzman and his family. The boy on the right was my great-grandfather, José L. Hernández Bauza.
The butterflies were from my great-grandfather, the taxidermist - José L. Hernández Bauza. On the left is a photo of his dad, with the tinted glasses, of course.
This was the home of my great-great grandfather (the one who owned the newspapers). My grandfather's cousin currently lives on the first floor with his wife and daughter.
The interiror of the home hasn't changed much! I showed this picture to my grandfather and he remembered everything - the chandeliers, the vase and even the the marble pedestal by the chair. He told me that back in the day, the maids had to take the glass chandelier down and clean each ball of glass one by one.
My grandfather had a sister very close in age nicknamed Beba, as well as a much younger half-brother named Julio. His brother lives in Miami now and I grew up knowing him and his family, since they had previously lived in Puerto Rico for a long time. I still see them from time to time and several of their children still live in PR. Beba, on the other hand, stayed in Cuba with her husband and my great grandparents. I never had the opportunity to meet them.
Beba & Bebo (my grandfather)
Newspaper clipping of Beba's bridal shower. My grandmother is seated next to her on the right.
Newspaper clipping of Beba on her wedding day
One day we went to visit my grandfather's niece, Tere (Beba's youngest daughter), her husband Miguel, and their son. They picked us up at our casa and brought us to their house, which was nearby in Vedado. This house was built by my grandfather for his sister Beba. She lived there until she passed away in 2003. Now her daughter (Tere) lives there with her family. Tere and Miguel showed us lots of pictures of the family (including the newspaper clippings above). They told me all about Beba and how she was the nicest and happiest person in the world. My grandparents have always said the same thing about her and I'd soon learn that most people felt this way about her. She was clearly a very loved person.
On another day, Tere and Miguel took us on a tour around town and then to visit my grandfather's cousin Mickey, who lives in the beautiful family home pictured above. Mickey was quite a character and told us stories from his days in Africa working for a micro-finance company. Old age left him a bit forgetful and kept turning to Chris and asking the group Who is this giant??? We'd explain, but then he'd forget in about 10 minutes and ask again. It was pretty funny after the the third time. What made it even funnier was that Mickey is only 3 inches shorter than Chris! I guess next to the rest of us, Chris looks like a giant!
We had a wonderful time meeting this part of the family, seeing my great-great-grandfateher's house, and hearing old stories.
On another day, Tere and Miguel took us on a tour around town and then to visit my grandfather's cousin Mickey, who lives in the beautiful family home pictured above. Mickey was quite a character and told us stories from his days in Africa working for a micro-finance company. Old age left him a bit forgetful and kept turning to Chris and asking the group Who is this giant??? We'd explain, but then he'd forget in about 10 minutes and ask again. It was pretty funny after the the third time. What made it even funnier was that Mickey is only 3 inches shorter than Chris! I guess next to the rest of us, Chris looks like a giant!
We had a wonderful time meeting this part of the family, seeing my great-great-grandfateher's house, and hearing old stories.
With my grandfather's side of the family: Mickey - my grandfather's cousin - is in front. His daughter, Baby is on the left next to Tere, her son Cutu, me and Miguel.
My Grandfather's Buildings
My grandfather is an architect and has built many houses in Puerto Rico, including the one he lives in now. Before Puerto Rico, he built many homes in Havana and in a little beach town right outside of the city named Tarará. It was in this town that he lived with my grandmother, mom, and uncle. Both of his parents and my grandmother's parents lived here as well. He also built the town's yacht club, where Ernest Hemingway kept his boat. In fact, Hemingway docked his boat right next to my grandfather's! Tere had a photo album full of the homes he built during the 1950's. Here are a few:
My grandfather is an architect and has built many houses in Puerto Rico, including the one he lives in now. Before Puerto Rico, he built many homes in Havana and in a little beach town right outside of the city named Tarará. It was in this town that he lived with my grandmother, mom, and uncle. Both of his parents and my grandmother's parents lived here as well. He also built the town's yacht club, where Ernest Hemingway kept his boat. In fact, Hemingway docked his boat right next to my grandfather's! Tere had a photo album full of the homes he built during the 1950's. Here are a few:
My great-grandfather's beach house
"Ledon y Hernandez" sign in front of one of their houses. My grandfather's business partner - Ledon - also left Cuba and his sons currently live in Puerto Rico - right down the street from my grandparents.
My grandfather's yacht club in Tarara. The club is no longer there but Tere kept this drawing, which is hanging in her house.
We had a wonderful time with all of our family and really appreciate all their hospitality. I hope it's not too long before we can visit again!
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