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The Vermont Cheese Trail

4/30/2015

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Attention cheese lovers!  Vermont should hold high rank on your travel bucket list.  With 45 different cheese makers scattered across this small state, you'll surely find a new favorite snack at one of these farms nestled in New England's mountains.

In early April, Chris and I decided to embark on an impromptu self-guided tour of Vermont's cheese trail.  For years we have enjoyed Vermont cheeses sold at local markets in Boston, but we have never ventured out on the cheese trail to taste freshly made cheese directly from the source.  
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The Vermont Cheese Trail map along with some pamphlets we picked up along the way. You can print your own map here or see it in Google Maps: 
I quickly learned two lessons from our cheese tour experience:

1) Early April is not the best time to go. Many of the cheese makers are closed for the season and the weather is unpredictable. The first day was sunny and a balmy 70 degrees F. The second day was freezing,windy and snowy.  Early May might have been a better choice. 

2) Going on a cheese tour while pregnant can be a bit...well...tortuous.  Much of the cheese is freshly made with raw milk - a no-no food for pregnancy.  Luckily there were a couple of options made with pasteurized milk so I could partake in sampling.  A tip for the pregnant ladies: you can eat raw milk cheese as long as you heat it up. So bring on the grilled cheese! 
During our two day tour, we visited three cheese makers:
  1. Plymouth Artisan Cheeses
  2. Cabot Creamery Cooperative
  3. Shelbourne Farms

We would have been able to squeeze in two more had we planned our trip beforehand and called ahead to arrange a time at those creameries that are appointment only.  But this was a last minute get-in-the-car-and-go trip so c'est la vie! 

Not only is it fun to taste the cheese, but the drive through Vermont is beautiful and each property has a really fascinating history.   Here is a brief recap of each:

Plymouth Artisan Cheeses: Presidential Roots
  • Operating for 124 years, it's the second oldest cheese factory in the USA. 
  • The factory was founded by the father of Calvin Coolidge, the 30th president of the USA.
  • The factory's location has not changed since it's inception in 1890. There is a little museum above the shop where you can see the original cheese making equipment. 
  • Here we purchased the Sage & Herbs cheese and two bags of our favorite almonds from The Mapled Nut, a Vermont owned gourmet nut company.  These almonds are so good that we finished them in a matter of minutes!
Plymouth Vermont
Plymouth Vermont
The charming and tiny town of Plymouth, VT. It's the birthplace and childhood home of USA President Calvin Coolidge and long time home to Plymouth Artisan Cheese.  The former President is buried across the street.
Plymouth Artisan Cheese
Above the store is an exhibit of old fashioned cheese making tools and the history of the factory. 
Old fashioned Cheese presses, Plymouth Artisan Cheese
Vermont Cheesemakers, Plymouth Artisan Cheese
Present day cheese factory. Unfortunately, they weren't making cheese while we were there. 
The Mapled Nut, Gourmet Nuts, Vermont Brands, Vermont food
Our favorite snack -The Mapled Nut gourmet almonds!  I also loved the unique design of each cheese label. 

Cabot Creamery Cooperative: Strength in Numbers
  • Cabot isn't just one cheese maker, it's actually a cooperative of over 1,000 dairy farm families! 
  • In the early 20th century, there was an excess supply of milk so farmers from the Cabot region joined forces and combined their extra milk to make butter under the Rosedale brand name. 
  • Although the number of Vermont dairy farms shrank in the mid 60's, Cabot retained hundreds of members supplying milk to make their increasingly popular cheddar cheeses.
  • We sampled all the cheeses on display at the Visitor's Center just outside of Stowe and our favorites were the horseradish cheese and the chipotle cheese. I love the horseradish cheese so much that I've begun purchasing it regularly at my grocery store in Cambridge. 
Cabot Creamery Cooperative Tasting Room
Chris sampling various Cabot cheeses at the shop. There had to be at least 20 different types!
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Three cheers for pasteurized cheese! We purchased the horseradish (my favorite) and chipotle cheeses. 
Shelburne Farms: A Vanderbilt Legacy
  • Situated along Lake Champlain, just south of Burlington, this 1,400 acre working farm is a National Historic Landmark.
  • In the late 1800's, Lila Vanderbilt Webb (Cornelius'' granddaughter) and her husband acquired this land and hired the famous landscape architect Frederick Law Olmsted to develop it (the same Olmsted that designed New York's Central Park).
  • The farm is MASSIVE and consists of several stunning buildings designed by R.H. Robertson. 
  • During the summer, visitors can stay at The Inn at Shelburne Farms. It's seasonal because heat was never installed at this summer "house". 
  • The farm is currently a non-profit organization that helps educators and children learn about sustainable living and farming.
  • While the highlight of this visit was definitely touring the grounds (even in the brutal snow and wind), the cheese was also very good. Here we purchased a 6 month aged cheddar and a horseradish mustard that pairs nicely with Chris' sautéed brussel sprouts. 
Shelburn Farms Cheese
The Shelburne Farms tasting room and shop. The woman working here was very helpful and knowledgeable, but too shy to pose behind the counter for the picture. 
Shelburne Farms Farm Barn
This is the Farm Barn - home to the bakery, cheese making facilities administrative offices, an elementary school, the children's farm and more. It's the most spectacular barn I've ever seen! 
Shelburn Farms, Inn at Shelburn, Lake Champlain
The backyard of the Inn, facing a frozen Lake Champlain.  I'm looking forward to coming back here when the lake has thawed and everything is green.
This concludes our very first experience on the Vermont Cheese Trail.  There are still 42 more cheesemakers to visit so I know we'll be back on the trail again soon. 

If you are curious about where we stayed, we played it by ear knowing it was shoulder season in Vermont and demand would be low. We ended up getting a deal via Priceline at  The Essex Resort just outside of Burlington. We booked the room on our phone a few hours before checking in. Our room was very cozy and comfortable and we were only about 20 minutes from Burlington where we spent the evening and dined at Church & Maine.  Check out more photos from Burlington here. 
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Photo Friday: Sunset Over a Frozen Lake Champlain in Burlington, VT

4/24/2015

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A couple of weeks ago, Chris and I went on an impromptu "cheese tour" of Vermont. I'll recap our tour next week, but for now I thought I'd share a handful of contrasting photos we took in Burlington, where we happened to stop for the night.  

As we arrived around sunset, the town was bustling with people emerging from hibernation to enjoy the warm weather (high 60's F). Restaurants' outdoor seating areas were full and people in t-shirts and sundresses gazed at the purple sunset over a still-frozen Lake Champlain. It was an idyllic spring evening and we slept well after a few hours of fresh air in our lungs, sun on our face, and sand on our feet.

The next morning we woke up to a snowstorm.  Such is spring in New England, and after three months of constant snow, what's one more day?  

Here are some of my favorite shots from those 12 hours in Burlington:
Lake Champlain photography, Lake Champlain sunset, Burlington Vermont sunset, Burlington Boathouse, sun gazers
Watching the sun set on a warm day from the downtown Boathouse over a still-frozen Lake Champlain. 
Lake Champlain photography, Lake Champlain sunset, Burlington Vermont sunset, Burlington Boathouse, sun gazers
Burlington Vermont, Church Street, Vermont towns, Vermont Shopping
Everyone out and about on Church Street. No jackets! 
Lake Champlain photography, Lake Champlain sunset, Burlington Vermont sunset, North Beach in Burlington
Sunset at North Beach. Those colors!!!
Lake Champlain photography, Lake Champlain sunset, Burlington Vermont sunset, North Beach in Burlington Vermont, lone tree, spring in new england
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Me and my little boy :) 

The next morning it was snowing, windy and freezing! 
Essex Resort & Spa in Burlington, VT
This was our view from the Essex Resort. Fresh snow the morning after a warm spring day. Cue the trombone!
Lake Champlain in a snowstorm, frozen lake, Vermont snow, Burlington Vermont
The wind coming off Lake Champlain was BRUTAL! I could barely stand up straight on the beach.

snow, burlington, VT
Exploring a little off shore, protected by the trees.  A winter wonderland in spring.
Next up we'll recap our self-guided cheese tour! 
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More Tips and Reviews of Fajardo, Puerto Rico and El Conquistador Resort

4/15/2015

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Since I wrote about El Conquistador Resort and Fajardo, Puerto Rico in January, four different groups of friends have booked a trip to the resort. Some were looking for a couples getaway while others vacationed with family. Traveling from home bases of Boston, DC and Chicago, they all had one thing in common: wanting to escape the frigid winter! I'll admit, I was drooling over their Facebook photos of paradise, wishing I was back there instead of buried under three feet of snow. 

Since Chris and I only spent a few nights at El Conquistador, I followed up with a few of these folks after their trips to gather additional feedback on the resort and Fajardo. Most importantly, everyone had a great time and enjoyed the sunshine, calm water and warm breezes of the island. 

Here are a few tips I found particularly helpful:

Transportation to and from El Conquistador

The most common question I received from readers was "what is the best way to get there?".  The distance from San Juan Airport to El Conquistador is 55km (34 miles) and will take anywhere from 40-60 minutes driving, depending on traffic.  My recommendation was to rent a car if you could get a cheap rate at the San Juan airport (<$35/day) and self park at the hotel ($15/day). I recommend this ONLY for short stays and if the traveler plans on exploring the area. If you are going for a full week and plan to stay at the resort, it may be more economical to take the shuttle because $15/day for parking can add up. You can rent a car for a day at a time at the resort.

My friend Meg stayed at the Casitas Village with her husband and if you book a room or apartment at the Casitas Village, parking is included in the rate. They took the shuttle, but if she were to do it again, they would have rented a car, mainly because the taxis were overpriced and they enjoyed leaving the resort for meals. 

On the flip side, Elizabeth recommends taking the shuttle. She was traveling with her mother and young son and found the shuttle to be much more economical than renting a car as she was staying there for a week and parking would have added up. The shuttle costs $78 per adult and $58 per child round trip. If you are a family of two adults and two kids, they cut the rate to $200 round trip. This means that families that consist of two adults and one kid pay MORE ($214) than families with two adults and two kids ($200). A little bizarre, but she successfully negotiated the policy with the concierge ahead of time and got the rate for $200 round trip. She said the airport transfer was very easy - they were met at baggage claim and driven directly to the resort.  

She also rented a four door Jeep on-site for 24 hours in order to see the rainforest and to go out to dinner one night which was far more economical than paying for the hotel sponsored rainforest tour. 

Like Meg, Elizabeth acknowledged that the hotel's taxi service was overpriced but considering that the dinners in Fajardo were half the price of the food at the resort and far better quality, it was was worth the extra expense. 

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[Pictured Above] La Casitas Village not only has fantastic views but the parking is free! 
[Pictured Below] Elizabeth's beautiful view from El Yunque rainforest. Worth a visit on a sunny day! 
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Best Restaurants in Fajardo

In my "Things to do in Fajardo" post, I highly recommended eating at La Estacion and it turned out to be a favorite of these visitors too! The only caveat is to call ahead to make sure they are open the night you plan on going to dinner. Since these travelers spent more nights there than Chris & I did, they were lucky enough to sample the other restaurants in Fajardo. Here were their favorites:
  • Breakfast at Las Vistas Cafe
  • Dinner at Pasion por el Fogon - try the whole stuffed fish and the fried ice cream in almonds and coconuts. 
  • Dinner at Di Yukas
  • At the resort, Singray Cafe by the marina and Cafe Bella Vista were recommended. 

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[Pictured Above] While everyone agreed the best food is in town, the resort's Stingray Cafe served decent food with a nice view of the marina. Elizabeth shared this pretty shot of the marina at sunset. 

Tips for Kids at El Conquistador

El Conquistador has many amenities, and the water park was a big hit with kids! It turns out that the water park has some of the best views at the resort and it also boasts a lovely infinity pool. One tip was that the water park can be exhausting and spending an entire day there is not necessary. If you go after 1:30pm you'll pay a significantly lower rate and still get a full 4 hours of play time. 

Also, the sun is really strong in Puerto Rico and a few of the fairer travelers got burned, even after applying really strong sun screen. Remember to bring long-sleeved sun/swim shirts and hats for the kids. They are not going to want to sit in the shade with a water park, pool and beach at their disposal! 

Special Events at El Conquistador

Another tip I found particularly helpful was to  call ahead about special events at the resort. One friend said there was a corporate conference going on at the resort while she and her husband were there on vacation. I've never had to deal with this before, but I can only imagine how uncomfortable it might be to walk amongst people networking in business suits while sporting a swim suit. This couple spent most of their trip on the beach at Palomino Island and tried their best to avoid the main resort common areas. 

Favorite Part of the Resort & Fajardo

I asked about everyone's favorite part of the trip. Here were their answers, in no particular order:
  • Palomino Island (also my favorite!). The beach was calm, clear and very relaxing.
  • Las Casitas Village - the couple that stayed here loved their room with a balcony that looked over the ocean. 
  • Snorkeling - one couple loved their snorkeling excursion and wished they had booked a day trip to either Culebra or Vieques for more snorkeling fun, but the tours were full by the time they got there. 
  • The rooms with a balcony in the Las Brisas wing had beautiful views and modern bathrooms. One person said they might want to try a first floor room in the Marina because they have balconies that have both sunny and shady sections. 
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[Pictured Above] Palomino Island was a traveler favorite. No surprises here! 

Book a Package Deal Through A Wholesale Club

This was a new tip for me, since I don't belong to a wholesale club. However, these clubs have many travel benefits and Elizabeth booked her family's flights and stay at the hotel as a package through BJs travel site, saving thousands of dollars. Note, you must be a BJs member to book travel through their site. 

Remember, Resort Fees Apply

Many hotels in Puerto Rico charge a daily resort fee. El Conquistador's is 18% of the room rate so make sure you incorporate this into your total cost, as it can add up! Often times when you are booking via a third party (ie travel agent or travel aggregator site) they don't include the resort fee in the advertised price. Instead it's in the fine print and many folks are surprised upon arrival or checkout at the resort. 

Thanks so much to those who sent in feedback from your trip!!!
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Spring 2015 Travel Fashion: The Tunic

4/7/2015

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While spring is taking its sweet time to arrive in New England, I'm confident that the last piles of snow will soon disappear and warmer winds will blow our way. This is typically the time of year when I pack away winter sweaters and update my spring wardrobe. However, at seven months pregnant, my choices are somewhat limited. This doesn't mean I can't browse online:)  

When thinking about my favorite spring travel staples of years past, tunics immediately come to mind. Tunics are highly versatile, making them ideal for travel: they can be worn with pants, leggings, jeans, shorts, alone as a dress, or as a bathing suit cover-up. They also go with a variety of jackets making them ideal for spring temperature swings.

I was really pleased to find a variety of travel friendly tunics available online across price points. The qualities I tend to seek in travel clothing are soft/comfortable material, easy to wash, and versatility. Here are some of my favorite tunics for sale right now:
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1. Free People Embroidered Austin Dress $148
Fun, floral statement piece for spring! The material is flowy, comfortable and can be easily worn alone or layered on top of warmer clothing.

2. Glamorous Long Sleeve Folk Tunic Top with Embroidery $54

I love the slimming quality of this tunic and the embroidery adds a delicate quality. I'd wear this as a dress, beach coverup, or as a top over shorts/white denim. 

3. Riller & Fount Kevin Dress  $154

This is made of the most comfortable material ever! It's seriously soft, flattering and simple. This can be dressed up with jewelry or worn with your favorite pair of jeans. It's so soft that, you may even be tempted to sleep in it. 

4. Patisserie Picks Tunic in Stripes $47.99

While I tend to shy away from horizontal stripes, I really like this preppy tunic from ModCloth. Pair it with brightly colored pants and you'll be ready for a warm weekend getaway to Nantucket or Paris.

5. Three Dots Reversible Tunic Dress $77

Since I pack light, I'm a sucker for versatility and this Three Dots little black dress hits the mark.  Not only can you wear it as a top but two different necklines make it reversible. 

6. Tory Burch Printed T-Shirt Dress $195

I love this tribal pattern. Pair it with some colorful jewelry and a light jacket and you are set for a stylish weekend.

7. Nanette Lepore Costa Del Sol Tunic $148

The plunging V-neck, dolman sleeves, and colorful embroidery make this tunic very flattering. 

8. Calypso Ro Printed Cotton Voile Dress  $179

Tribal print with a preppy flair. Perfect for those seeking more structure. 
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Brahmins of Boston Tour with Context Travel & WITS

4/1/2015

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Last weekend, I had the pleasure of attending the Women In Travel Summit (WITS) in Boston, a gathering of hundreds of female travel bloggers, entrepreneurs and travel enthusiasts. Attendees who arrived early could participate in several tours organized by WITS and Context Travel - a company that specializes in walking tours in cities around the world. 

I attended Context Travel's "Brahmins of Boston", a three-hour walking tour. Despite the ghastly weather - torrential rain at times - I'm really glad I attended this event. I learned a lot about my city!

Before I describe the tour, I'll answer three questions you may be pondering:

1) What is a Boston Brahmin?
Associated with the upper crust of society, Brahmins were often descendants of early colonists from England. While many considered them elitist, the Brahmins contributed significantly to the development of our country and culture, and were especially influential on the east coast. 


2) What is the origin of the name "Brahmin"?  
While it sounds like someone with a heavy Boston accent saying barman - it has nothing to do with the famous Boston dropped "r". In the traditional Hindu caste system, Brahmin refers to the highest ranking class. Writer Oliver Wendell Holmes Sr. first referred to these elite New England families as Brahmins in an Atlantic Monthly article from 1860, and the name stuck.


3) Who are the most famous Brahmins?
You'd recognize many of these names from US history, especially if you've spent time in New England. Many of the the street names, cities and notable landmarks in New England are named after a Brahmin family. Examples include Adams, Forbes, Cabot, Jackson, Lowell, Quincy, and Winthrop. 
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Paul Revere's gravestones (looks like he got an upgrade at some point). While he wasn't considered a Brahmin, the man who sent him on his famous midnight ride - Dr. Joseph Warren - was.
Our tour guide was named Jessica Del Russo - a born & bred Bostonian - who had somewhat of a modern day Brahmin upbringing. Like many a Brahmin, she was raised in the North End and attended the prestigious Boston Latin School, followed by Harvard University. She was extremely knowledgable about the city's history and, as a shareholder in the Boston Athenaeum, she gave us an insider's tour of this library which houses beautiful artwork and rare books including George Washington's personal collection.  Most of our walk was concentrated in the area around Downtown Crossing, Boston Common and the State House.  However, I felt like Jessica may have altered her typical route a bit due to the unfortunate weather. 

Here are a few fun tidbits I learned on the tour: 

Ben Franklin was possibly expelled from grade school. He attended the prestigious Boston Latin School (USA's first public school) for just two years. Many experts claim he left because his father could no longer afford to send him to school. However, Jessica offered another theory - Ben was outspoken and questioned the school's viewpoint on God, and was thus expelled. Regardless of the reason, Ben never completed his education here. Despite this fact, there is a large statue of Ben Franklin in front of Boston Latin School today. 
Ben Franklin Boston Latin School
Ben Franklin, standing in front of Boston Latin School, appearing far more intimidating than any present-day disciplinarian and significantly more judgmental than most teenagers. Way to uphold those Brahmin standards!
Downtown Crossing was once a water source.  Downtown Crossing - one of the earliest neighborhoods in the city - owes its location to a natural underground spring that provided fresh water. It still flows beneath the streets of Boston, and you can supposedly hear it in parts of Beacon Hill.  
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This sign can be found along the aptly named "Spring Street" in Downtown Crossing. 
The colors of the T lines actually mean something. Boston was the first city in the USA to establish a subway, and Park Street was the first stop. The names of the four major lines are colors that represent each line's purpose: 
  • Blue Line: This train travels underwater and to the beach. 
  • Orange Line: Runs along Washington Street which was originally called "Orange Street".
  • Red Line: Named for the Harvard Crimson because it used to end at the Harvard station.
  • Green Line: This line goes out to the green fields of the country - aka Newton. 
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Park Street T stop - the first subway stop in the USA. The subway entrances are often referred to as mausoleums.
The Puritans were pretty darn intolerant.  Although the Puritans left England to escape religious persecution, it didn't stop them from persecuting others. They pushed out immigrants of other religious denominations upon arrival in Boston, most of them moving west or south. Until the King's Chapel was built, most of the religious establishments in Boston were Puritan Congregationalists.  

Many Brahmins belonged to the King's Chapel. When England established a governor in Boston, they built a church that reflected the religion of the King (hence the name). The church, built in 1754, is the first granite structure in Boston and its interior architecture is influenced by European churches of the time - double columns, baroque details, and a wine glass pulpit. The church philosophy and practice became a hybrid of sorts: Congregationalist in governance, Episcopalian in worship and Unitarian Christian in theology. 
king's chapel boston brahmin
Notice many famous Brahmin names on this plaque that is located in the church.
govenor's pew king's chapel boston
The church had a governor's pew and it was here that George Washington sat during service. 
wine glass pulpit at kings chapel boston
The wine glass pulpit
King's Chapel Boston
The King's Chapel was the first church in the US with an organ.
horsehair seats King's Chapel Boston
The seats in the pews are lined with horsehair which still make a crunchy sound when you sit down. 
The King's Chapel Common Prayer book is the only one of its kind. Members of this congregation were very liberal and edited the traditional Common Prayer book to only include the stuff they believed in.  
King's Chapel Pews Boston
These prayer books are truly unique to this church.
Boston Brahmins were known for their accents which were very different from those of the working-class Bostonians. Many associate this accent with snobbery. Current examples of Brahmin accents include John Kerry and - my favorite pop culture reference - George Feeny from Boy Meets World.

Toward the end of our tour, Jessica brought us to the Boston Athenaenum, an institution with the mission of preserving rare books and works of art. It was here that we saw George Washington's private library. Even after living in Boston for several years I never knew this beautiful library existed! 

 Boston Athenenum
 Boston Athenenum
 Boston Athenenum
 Boston Athenenum, graveyard, cemetery
[Above] View of the Old Granary Burying Ground, where John Hancock, Paul Revere and Sam Adams are buried.
[Below] You can see down several levels of the Athenaeum in the stairwell and the stacks.
 Boston Athenenum
 Boston Athenenum, Washington's library
 Boston Athenenum
 Boston Athenenum
[Above] Washington's private library including copies of New York Magazine from the late 1700's
Thank you Jessica, Context Travel and the WITS crew for this wonderful experience! I also want to give a shout out to my tour mates - Alison from Green with Renvy , Shobha from Just Go Places  and Melissa from Write Travel Grow. 
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    Eva has been traveling for 15+ years, including an 8 month journey around the world.  

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