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Days 165-167: 3 Days In Shanghai

10/27/2013

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We took the high speed train from Beijing to Shanghai whivh took about 5 hours. We booked a pair of first class tickets, which are not as nice as business class but provide more leg room than second class.  Overall, I'd recommend the train - it's easy, comfortable and you get to see some of the Chinese countryside on the way.  One thing we found interesting was that despite having so much open land, the Chinese still build high rise apartment buildings in their small towns.  We'd see vast amounts of empty farm land and then, suddenly, a small-scale city, complete with mid and high rise buildings followed immediately by more countryside.  Many of the high rise buildings were under construction and most appeared to be cookie-cutter buildings - 5-7 identical high rises being built simultaneously, one after another. 
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Ready to board the train in Beijing
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Our car - first class has four seats per row while second class has five seats per row. Business class is comprised of individual pods, similar to an airplane.
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Hilarious ad in the train magazine. Check out the tagline - "Enjoy the moment, enjoy your life". Does this make you want to buy a toilet?
The Grand Central Hotel
We arrived in Shanghai in the afternoon and took the subway to our hotel, Grand Central, located downtown near Nanjing Road - one of the main shopping and entertainment areas of Shanghai.  The hotel was in a fantastic location - close to the subway and 5 minutes from the Bund (riverwalk). We got a great rate on our room as well as a room upgrade.  The hotel is massive, but very comfortable and luxurious compared to many of the places we have stayed on this trip.
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View of Nanjing Road from our room
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Our fancy room!
The Bund
One of the first things we did was to check out Shanghai's famous skyline from the the Bund. The Bund is Shanghai's waterfront area along the Huangpu river, facing Pudong.  The name Bund comes from a Persian world that means embankment.  This particular bund was named after the bunds in Baghdad along the Tigris river.  When the Baghdadi Jews settled in Shanghai in the 19th century, they built heavily on the bund along the Huangpo river.  The name stuck, and it is now the most famous bund in the world.

We visited during the day and at night and can easily say that night time is best!
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View from the Bund by day
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Shanghai's skyline is stunning!
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Fun on the Bund
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Looking down the Bund. There are so many beautiful buildings inspired by French and American art deco architecture. We felt like we were back in Europe! Quite a change from ultra-modern Beijing.
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Nanjing Road & Mr. Sweetpants' Dancers
Each evening we would stroll down Nanjing Road to check out the shops, find some food and observe the local entertainment. Nanjing is an electric street.  Literally. The entire street glows with neon lights from store fronts, buildings, trolleys, billboards and people selling stuff along the road. 
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Bright lights of Nanjing Road
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Odd store display along Nanjing. The "models" look very intimidating.
Here you'll find impromptu kareoke, make-over stations and our favorite modern Chinese tradition - flash mobs. These aren't the kind of flash mobs you see on YouTube where an entire group of people go from doing everyday tasks to breaking out into perfectly choreographed dance moves.  These are dance troupes that gather in different areas of Nanjing Road at night and perform basic dance moves to a series of songs.  Each troupe has a leader and we quickly found our favorite.  He's an older guy who leads a massive group, mostly comprised of women.  He wears the same huge white pinstriped pants every night and never, ever cracks a smile.  We nicknamed him Mr. Sweetpants and visited his dance troupe every night we were in Beijing.  
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Mr. Sweetpants and his entourage.
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Sweetpants' dancers from behind
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Impromptu karaoke. Rock on.
Din Tai Fung
Normally I don't dedicate an entire section to food, but these dumplings were so good that they deserve a special shout out.  As some of you may know, I'm not a huge fan of Chinese food.  We'd read good reviews of this dumpling chain in Shanghai and decided to try it for dinner. It was phenomenal!  The pork and hairy crab dumplings were the best. We loved it so much that we went back the very next day for lunch. It turns out they are expanding and have opened up branches in Los Angeles and Seattle.  Not sure if it's as good, but definitely worth a try.  Fingers crossed they make it to Boston (or New York at the very least). 
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So excited for dumplings!
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We learned how to properly eat them.
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Din Tai Fung! Shocker, it's in a mall.
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Missing these dumplings! My stomach just grumbled.
Yu Yuan Gardens
One day we walked over to the YuYuan Gardens. We walked down the Bund and then wandered through some of Shanghai's old city, the equivielent of the Houtongs in Beijing.  These small winding streets were full of all sorts of things - food, bikes, laundry, garbage, people, construction and stray dogs.  It was really interesting to see the disparity between these neighborhoods and the very modern parts of the city just around the corner.
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One of the many small streets we walked through to get to the Yu Gardens.
Before entering the gardens, you must pass through an old style shopping center.  The shopping center was really beautiful, but it was incredibly crowded and the salespeople were very aggressive, making it uncomfortable to browse. 
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Crowded shopping center
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Almost at the gardens!
Yu Yuan is a famous garden located in Anren Jie, Shanghai.  It was built in 1577 by a government officer of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) named Pan Yunduan.  In Chinese, Yu means pleasing or satisfying, and this garden was specially built for Pan's parents as a place for them to enjoy a tranquil and happy time in their old age.  It was a really nice departure from the busy shopping center just outside the walls!  The buildings and gardens are beautiful and although there were lots of tourists, you can still find quiet nooks with peaceful vistas. Pan's parents were very lucky!
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Every door had a different design!
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Koi pond - they sense food!
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China is crowded...even in the koi pond!
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Singing for his food
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Taking a breather in the garden
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Chris Hates Crowds
Here is a typical scene in the shopping area outside of Yu Yuan Gardens. Needless to say, after we saw the Yu Yuan Gardens, we beelined it out of the shopping area. 
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A Few More Tidbits
Here are a few more things we did in Shanghai that I'd recommend:

French Concession - We walked around the neighborhood around mid-day and had a healthy lunch at Sproutworks. Although we didn't spend much time shopping, it looked like there were some great boutique shops for both men and women.

Lingo Bistro - Located near People's Square, this is a great little spot for French food. We had steak, tuna, a cheese platter and a bottle of red. It was a nice break from Chinese food!

Fairmont Peace Hotel - This beautiful art deco building is located right on the Bund at the end of Nanjing Road.  The interior is beautiful. I especially loved the tile work! 

We had planned to go out for a nice dinner at M on the Bund, but Chris wasn't feeling well that night due to a cold so we skipped it. 

All in all, we had a great time in Shanghai. It was a completely different experience from Beijing.  If comparing to the US, Beijing was a lot more like Los Angeles and Shanghai was similar to New York.  Shanghai is very cosmopolitan, and at times we forgot we were in China because it is so diverse and looks so much like a major American or European city.  

After a week and a half touring around big cities, we were ready to slow down and see some of the Chinese countryside. Next stop - Guilin and Yangshuo! 
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Bye Shanghai!
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    Eva has been traveling for 15+ years, including an 8 month journey around the world.  

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