Category: Cuba

10 Tropical Getaways For Winter 2016

1/10/2016

January is the time of year when people inquire about tropical vacation ideas. For those of us in the Boston area - and despite record warmth so far - we are particularly antsy for a winter escape plan as we fear another blizzard scenario like the one that kept us shut-in for months last year (although I think many secretly enjoyed it!).

Most of our readers are from the US, so they are typically looking for something in the western hemisphere, ideally a short flight away. Therefore, we've listed 10 of our favorite warm weather getaways that are relatively easy to reach from the US. No red-eye required (though maybe for West Coasters), and minimal (if any) time zone change, so you can start enjoying your vacation the minute your feet hit the sand!

For the Diver: Caye Caulker, Belize

Also good for: friends, backpackers, solo travelers

"Go Slow" is the island motto and for good reason. This tiny island has no paved roads or cars, and the only way around is by foot, bike or golf cart. It's a 45 minute ferry ride from Belize City and is situated in the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef - the second largest barrier reef in the world. It was here that we dove with sharks, dolphins, turtles and green moray eels. There are no wide, expansive beaches on this caye, but jump off any pier to swim, take a short boat ride out to the reef for a snorkel or stroll over to the The Split for a cold drink and watch the spectacular sunset over the ocean. Finally, Caye Caulker is an ideal launching pad from which to visit the Blue Hole, one of the top dive sites on every diver's bucket list. Interested? Read more here.

For the Surfer: Rincon, Puerto Rico

Also good for: families

Surfers from all over the US flock to Rincon each winter to enjoy the big waves, warm water and laid-back vibe. Instead of long white sand beaches common in the northeast of Puerto Rico, Rincon is comprised of several little coves. Here you can find many quirky, locally owned hotels or house rentals and there are plenty of little beach bars and restaurants to provide fuel for the grueling work-out that is surfing. Many families also love Rincon for the home rentals and safe, laid-back atmosphere. Read more about Rincon here.

For the Adventurous Beach Bum: Tulum, Mexico

Also good for: couples, friends

The beach surrounding Tulum is one of the most beautiful we've ever seen. It's your quintessential Caribbean paradise - white sand, turquoise water, crashing waves, tall palm trees and fresh margaritas (best we've had anywhere in the world!). It offers something for everyone - sun, snorkeling, parties, culture, and adventure. Here you can sleep on the beach all day or, for those of us who like a little adventure, there are plenty of fun things to do nearby - diving, fishing, ruins, cenote snorkeling (highly recommended!), and zip lining. And let's not forget that it's home to the best food in the world. Read more about the Riviera Maya here.

For (Almost) Guaranteed Sun: Eagle Beach, Aruba

If you want guaranteed sunshine, white sand beaches and calm turquoise water then look no further than Aruba. Prices spike in the winter because perfect weather is 99.9% guaranteed on this desert island. There isn't much to do here except sunbathe, swim, snorkel, shop, eat and drink. Direct flights can be found from most cities on the East Coast. Eagle Beach also ranks in our Top 5 Beaches in the World. And this is why it's a perfect long weekend winter getaway. Read more about Aruba here.

For the Thrill Seeker: Arenal, Costa Rica

Also good for: families with older kids

Located a three-hour drive from San Jose, this symmetrical volcano is encircled by jungle, rivers, lakes and a wide variety of flora and fauna. Until 2010, Arenal was Costa Rica's most active volcano, regularly spewing lava while villagers and tourists watched from a safe distance. Although it has recently entered a resting phase, it is still a tremendous natural attraction worth visiting. This region offers so many unique activities - white water rafting, volcano hikes, zip lining, canyoneering, waterfalls, nature walks and natural hot springs. Read more about Arenal, Costa Rica here.

For the Culture Seeker: Havana, Cuba

Also good for: Solo travelers (go on an organized cultural tour)

Cuba has become a hot destination ever since the US relaxed its travel restrictions to the island nation. This destination holds a special place in my heart since I have family that lives here. However, even if it didn't have a personal meaning, I'd find it fascinating. One could spend a full week in Havana enjoying the culture, history, artwork and music. As long as you remember that this is an island of limited means (don't expect the same level of service as elsewhere in the Caribbean) and really try to get to know the people, you will have an extraordinary experience. Also there is little/no internet so you will have a perfect excuse to disconnect from the virtual world for a little while and remember what it's like to be 100% present. Read more about Cuba here.

For the Romantic: Cartagena, Colombia

Also good for: culture seekers; friends

Now that JetBlue flies directly to Cartagena from many major US hubs, it's easy to discover the colorful culture of Colombia. The cobblestone streets, flower-covered buildings, and ocean sunsets make this city perfect for couples looking for a romantic getaway. Cartagena is full of boutique courtyard-style hotels that are surprisingly quiet, even though they are in the midst of the lively old city. Soak in the Spanish Colonial decor (obsessed!), enjoy the huge variety of fresh fruit drinks (guanabana is my favorite) and if you are a seafood lover like me, sample all the ceviche you can. Read more about Cartagena here.

For the Family: Fajardo, Puerto Rico

Also good for: couples

Puerto Rico is super easy for those of us on the East Coast and in the Midwest US. Last year, Chris and I went to Fajardo and stayed at El Conquistador. Both of us agreed that it was an ideal destination for families since it has something for everyone. Its private island, Palomino, has a calm beach (a must for young kids), restaurant, horseback riding, hiking trails, outdoor games, and sea kayaks. The main hotel has a water park, several pools, incredible views, a variety of restaurants, golf, and a host of indoor facilities that we didn't have time to try. Nearby is the rainforest and beautiful Luquillo Beach if you are looking for a change of scenery. There are also several great restaurants close to the property. Also consider going to nearby islands Vieques (I hear the W is amazing) or Culebra for a more remote beach getaway. Read more about the Fajardo area here.

For the Sailor: Tortola & Virgin Gorda, BVI

Also good for: couples; families; people seeking solitude

Offering tall green hills, serene turquoise water and soft white sand, Tortola and neighboring Virgin Gorda are the poster children of the Caribbean. The Caribbean Sea is very flat here despite consistent winds, making it an ideal place for sailing. The BVIs are a bit more difficult to get to than some of the other destinations on this list since you typically have to fly there via St. Thomas or San Juan, or arrive via boat. However, if you have a full week, considering renting a sailboat and captain for a few days to explore all the remote beaches, islands and reefs. We stayed on land and while VERY quiet, there is lots of fun to be had at the marina bars in the evening, especially if you are there for the full moon party at Bombas on Tortola or Jost Van Dyke's Soggy Dollar Bar.

For the Glitz & Glam: Miami

Also good for: friends, couples

If you're seeking a fun weekend complete with spa retreats, fabulous parties, amazing restaurants and beach time then look no further than Miami. This city has a huge variety of fantastic hotels to choose from and its art deco architecture will motivate any weary winter traveler to get dolled up for a night on the town. Read more about our weekend in Miami here.

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Where to Stay in Havana, Cuba: The Casa Particular

5/14/2015

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The USA's new relaxed restrictions on travel to Cuba has resulted in a flurry of buzz and interest among US travelers. Google searches in the US for "Cuba" skyrocketed after Obama's December announcement about normalizing relations and search interest has been up year over year ever since. Check it out:

Source: Google Trends

If you are one of the many people interested in visiting Cuba, you have probably contemplated where to stay during your visit. Many Americans will travel with a special interest tour group, in which case accommodations might be pre-arranged. However, if you are traveling independently and/or have a choice in the matter I strongly encourage you to consider staying at a Casa Particular.

What is a "Casa Particular"?
In a nutshell, it's a private home, similar to a B&B. When Cuba re-opened to tourism in the mid 1990's, there was a shortage of decent hotel rooms. The government's solution was to allow Cuban citizens to apply for licenses to rent out extra rooms in their homes. These houses are known as Casas Particulares. The Cubans say "particular" instead of "privada" when describing privately run (or non-government run) businesses because the word "private" carries negative connotations in a communist system.

Why should you stay at a Casa Particular over a Hotel?

Experience Cuban hospitality. Renting a room in someone's house allows visitors to experience life in a real Cuban neighborhood. Cubans are super friendly so you'll likely get to know your hosts, meet the neighbors, and learn tidbits about the area known only to its residents. Your hosts may also know guides or drivers that offer a far better price than what you will find at downtown hotels. Our hosts, Pavel & Haifa, were wonderful and we really enjoyed getting to know them one evening after dinner. We were only their second guests from the US so I think they were as excited about talk to us as we were to them! You can read more about our stay with them in the second half of this blog post.
For most US travelers, it's inexpensive. Our room cost about $30/night and we had our own kitchen, A/C, bathroom, balcony and separate entrance. The accommodations were modest, but clean and comfortable. Every morning our host, Haifa, made us a complete breakfast for $5. Compare this to the hotels that charge you hundreds of dollars for a basic, and often dated, room.
Support the local people. $30/night goes a long way in Cuba where a typical salary is $12 a MONTH. Room rentals help families maintain their homes, buy food and medicine and communicate with their loved ones abroad (outbound telecommunications are VERY expensive for locals). If you stay at hotel, your money goes straight to the government and while theoretically that money should go back to the people, it likely goes to the upkeep of the hotel - a place that most locals cannot enjoy. Our host, Pavel, is a biochemistry professor at the university. He would teach classes on the front porch of his house and it was obvious that his students loved him. When he wasn't teaching or helping us, he was working on projects around the house and I'm sure that a large portion of our room fee helped pay for the materials he used to maintain his family's home.
Enjoy home cooked meals. Around the world people enjoy the eclectic flavors of Cuban food. However in Cuba, the food at the big restaurants can leave a lot to be desired. That combined with steep prices leave many travelers feeling disappointed. When you stay at a Casa Particular, you often have the option of joining the hosts and other guests for dinner. Based on our experience, the food still doesn't compare to the delicious Cuban dishes you find outside of the island- ingredients are scarce so people have to make due with what is available. But you'll still get a good home-cooked meal for a reasonable price and, more importantly, you'll share your meal with new friends.

Chris with Pavel & Haifa in front of their home in Vedado. We highly recommend this casa particular because the hosts were wonderful!

We originally inquired about staying at Ana & Pepe's casa particular but they were full at the time and referred us to Pavel & Haifa down the street. We still enjoyed a dinner at Ana & Pepe's house followed by an impromptu dance party. We also booked a tour with Pepe to see Miramar, Vedado and Old Havana. Here we are with Pepe at El Bodeguito del Medio bar, listening to a fantastic local salsa group.

Are there any downsides to staying at a Casa Particular?

If you are very particular about your room being impeccable and new then yes. These accommodations are basic, and while they are typically clean, homes can be run down and dated by US standards. Keep in mind that while hotels may be a step up in the decor department, they are certainly not luxurious, and you may be disappointed in the value you get for the price you pay.
The more well-known and well-reviewed Casas might be booked far in advance. Don't fret! Email them anyway and ask if they have friends nearby that have an extra room. This happened to us with Ana & Pepe and they referred us to Pavel & Haifa who were amazing hosts! Plus, we still got to dine with Ana, Pepe and all of their guests.

Here are a few pictures of our apartment at Pavel & Haifa's casa. Knowing that our readers have very diverse tastes, some of you will find this appealing while others might ...well...cringe. Please keep an open mind, prioritize cleanliness (this place was spotless) and remember that the one of the major benefits of visiting Havana is getting to know the people (not a fancy bed).

We had our own private kitchen. While we ate breakfast downstairs in Haifa's dining room this was nice for storing water and snacks. If you plan on staying longer you can prep meals here and eat out on the private balcony!

Our room off the kitchen had two double beds, a wardrobe, TV & A/C (neither of which we used) and a bathroom.

My favorite part of this casa was the private side entrance and balcony. It was the perfect little spot for a drink and cigar after a long day touring Havana!

How do I find Casa Particulares?

We found ours on Trip Advisor. There are now hundreds to choose from, many of which look pretty nice! When we were looking over a year ago there were far fewer options. It's just one of the many signs that Cuba is changing is quickly.

For more information about Cuba, check out the following blog posts:

Traveling to Cuba - Tips for Americans
Havana, Cuba Photo Tour
Meeting My Family in Cuba
Traveling to Havana, Cuba (via Mexico City)

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DAYS 212-218: Havana, Cuba Photo Tour

12/29/2013

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One afternoon, Pepe from Casa de Ana y Pepe offered to show us around the old city of Havana. On another day, my cousin Tere and her family brought us around the neighborhood to see many of the notable areas of Vedado and Miramar. When we weren't with family, we also spent some time on our own in Havana, exploring the old city, walking along the Malecon (Havana's sea wall) and wandering through the streets of Vedado. Much of the city has been frozen in time since the 1950's, so it's a fascinating place to simply wander around. Here's a photo recap of many of the things we saw.

Pepe gave us a lift into town in this old Ford from the '50s.

We drove through a beautiful park called Parque Almendares.

Old American cars at Parque Almendares

Monument to Jose Marti, a famous Cuban poet from the 1800's. The monument is located in the center of the Plaza de la Revolucion, where many of the government offices are located.

One of the government buildings in the Plaza de la Revolucion. Che Guevara is a national hero in Cuba and his image can be found everywhere.

This is Camilo Cienfuegos - one of Fidel Castro's top commanders. Below his facade it says "Vas bien, Fidel" (You’re doing fine, Fidel), representing the famous response of Camilo to Fidel when he asked, "Am I doing all right, Camilo?".

Old cars parked along the Plaza de Revolucion

This is the main entrance to the University of Havana. It's a huge university with tens of thousands of students. University tuition is free to Cuban students, but they must pass a test in order to enroll.

This is the athletics area of the university which has clearly been abandoned. I imagine at one point this pool hosted swim meets. A common theme we saw around Havana was pools and fountains without water. We suspect the fountains and pools remain waterless due to the electrical requirements and associated cost of operating pumping and filtration equipment.

The Capitol Building, modeled after the US Capitol

The Payret Theater with the Capitol in the background. This main street is called the Paseo del Prado.

Gran Teatro de la Habana, home to the Cuban Ballet and currently undergoing renovations. It is a stunning building, reminiscent of something you'd find in Paris or Vienna. The building was originally built to hold social gatherings for the immigrants from Galacia, Spain in the early 1900s.

In some respects, not much has physically changed since the 50's other than the passage of time, and certain things that either were or were not given a fresh coat of paint.

Across the street from the Capitol building

This is the Havana Libre hotel in central Havana. It used to be the Hilton pre-revolution. The Hilton opened a matter of months before Castro took control of the government. It was then taken by the government and was home to Castro's offices for several years in the early 60's.

Statue of Christ overlooking the city

This is Havana's oldest cathedral. My mom and uncle were baptized here.

Inside the cathedral. The chandelier was a gift from Mexico and is supposed to represent a traditional dress worn by Mexican women in the old days.

Plaza next to the Cathedral

Beautiful windows in Cathedral Square

Students visiting the Museum of the Revolucion. This building used to be the Presidential Palace for Cuban presidents prior to the revolution. This is where Castro's army attempted to assassinate Batista. You can still see the bullet holes on the marble wall behind the students pictured above.

The Hotel Ambos Mundos, where Hemingway lived for several years.

In the hotel lobby

We passed by this place - La Bodeguita del Medio - where Hemingway is said to have gone for his mojitos. We stuck our heads inside to check it out.

Despite the fact that the bar was tiny, they had an amazing band playing,

More cowbell!

Chris in the doorway of the Bodeguita del Medio

This guy was rolling cigars in a local shop.

A smoking room near the cigar roller

Sevillanas! The Spanish culture is still alive and kicking in Havana. We spotted these flamenco dancers while passing by a restaurant named El Meson de la Flota on calle Obispo.

An old fashioned pharmacy named Taquechel. In the old days, the chemists used to keep medicines and herbs in the porcelain jars in the glass cabinets. They would mix them in the back lab and send them off to their customers. Today it's still a pharmacy - but the things that are actually for sale are on the lower cabinets. The jars are just for show.

We climbed up to the top of one of the taller buildings in old Havana to catch an aerial view of the city.

Up on the roof

How cute is this little ice cream shop on the roof?

The Capitol building in the distance

Looking down on the square

This is one of several old train cars that were used to shuttle Cuban and visiting presidents around the country in the old days. The US President had a special car reserved for him when he was visiting Cuba. Today it's on display in the old city.

Pretty street in Havana Vieja

Car trouble

This mini church is a Greek Orthodox chapel on the grounds of a larger church

In the same garden was a lovely memorial to Mother Teresa

Headless geese wander the premises

We peeked into the lobby of the Havana Club distillery

These mail slots are all over old Havana.

Happy New Year! This restaurant is located right in front of the Cathedral.

Strolling back along the Malecon

Lots of people come here at dusk to fish

Even more common than classic American cars from the 1950's are these Soviet-built Ladas from the 1970's and 1980's. There are also Mercedes from the 1980's. We were in one with almost 800,000 miles on the odometer.

This is the Hotel Nacional, maybe the most famous old hotel in Havana. It sits upon a promontory overlooking the Malecon and the sea. It's an art deco style building constructed in the 1930's. They keep this one in very nice shape.

Looking up at the Hotel Nacional from the street

Built into the rock outcropping is an old fort used during the time of the Spanish Conquistadors. It currently houses an exhibit on the Cuban Missile Crisis.

Sunset over the Vedado neighborhood of Havana

View of the Malecon and old Havana in the distance. People are just starting to gather along the Malecon around sunset. On Saturday nights, the Malecon is full of thousands of Cubans hanging out, talking, playing music and dancing until the early morning hours.

Granizado is like a slushie in the US or a piragua in Puerto Rico. It's shaved ice with some kind of sweet flavoring.

Colon Cemetery in Vedado. With 500+ elaborate mausoleums, it is one of the great historical cemeteries of the world. It is said to be the second most important cemetery in Latin America after La Recoleta in Buenos Aires. Unfortunately, we only saw the cemetery from outside the gate as the guards tried to charge us to enter (even though I have family buried here).

There are no advertisments in Cuba since it's a communist society. However, there is a lot of propaganda like this billboard saying "Everything for the revolution".

This flag was at half mast for Nelson Mandela, who died the day before.

Final Thoughts
Walking around Havana was a fascinating experience, not just because it hasn't changed much since 1960, but also because of the of influences of the communist system on everyday life. For example, it occurred to us that neither of our careers (marketing and investments) exist in any form here. These are two growing industries worldwide, and neither career path is an option for young people in Cuba. Even China, which is still politically a communist society, has evolved to a largely free market economy. In one way, it's unfortunate that the people in Cuba can't benefit from these opportunities. However as a visitor, it was refreshing to experience a society free of chain restaurants, hotels, stores, in-your-face ads, etc. In many respects, life is much simpler here and people really seem to enjoy the company of one another. You'll find some of the friendliest people in the world in Cuba, even if you are an American:)

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Days 212-218: Meeting family in Cuba

12/28/2013

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In my last couple of posts, I mentioned that we were traveling to Cuba to meet our family there for the first time. The trip to Cuba was long and complicated but well worth it! It turned out to be one of the most memorable experiences of our entire trip.

Background
Before I describe our experience in Cuba, I thought it would be helpful to provide some context.

My mother was born in Havana, Cuba in the 1950's. During the Cuban revolution, right after Castro nationalized all private property in the country, my grandparents left Cuba for the USA with my mother and uncle, and my grandmother's parents. They were only allowed to bring one suitcase of clothing each and $5 per person. They left everything else behind, including many family members who stayed in Cuba. Eventually my grandparents settled in Puerto Rico, where my grandmother continued her career as a teacher and my grandfather, an architect, built a successful contracting business. This is a familiar story for many Cubans. Many of my grandparents' family and friends eventually left the country and started new lives all over of the world.

My grandparents still have close family members living in Cuba, most of whom, still live in the same homes their parents and grandparents lived in before them. My grandmother is still in touch with our family in Cuba and has even gone back once to visit. Prior to our arrival, she called ahead to let them know we would be visiting.

Because things in Cuba haven't changed much since the 50's, we were able to get a good idea of what Havana would have looked like when my mom and grandparents lived there (though the buildings are much more run down now than they were back then). Our family members in Cuba still have lots of old photographs and newspaper clippings of my mother, grandparents, and great grandparents during their youth. These were things I'd never seen before, since my grandparents couldn't take them when they left Cuba.

So here is part of their story. Meet my grandparents:

My grandparents: Susana Bertha "Baby" de la Cuesta y Alvarez & José L. "Bebo" Hernández y Suárez

My grandparents on their wedding day in Miramar, Havana, Cuba December 21, 1952

My Grandmother's Side - de la Cuesta
My grandmother's great-great-great grandfather was a notable figure in Cuban and Spanish history. His name was Santiago de la Cuesta y Manzanal and he was a Spanish count, holding the title Conde de la Reunion de Cuba. He came to Cuba in 1790 from northern Spain at the age of 12 with his older brother Pedro, who was 22. The two became very successful businessmen. Pedro died sometime between 1820 and 1833 without children, leaving Santiago with the business. In 1824, the Spanish King Ferdinand VII gave Santiago the title Conde de la Reunion de Cuba. Santiago married Concepción González Larrinaga, the daughter of one of the wealthiest families in Cuba and thus grew his business and position in Cuban society even further. The family owned several successful businesses across different industries in Cuba and by the 1830's the fortunes of Santiago were ranked as third in the country.

de la Cuesta coat of arms

The former house of the Condesa de la Reunion (Countess of the Reunion - wife of Santiago). Currently, this is a foundation dedicated to the famous writer Alejo Carpentier, who wrote several novels while living here in the 20th century.

This plaque is inside the building pictured above.

The history between Santiago de la Cuesta Manazanal and my great-grandfather Pedro de la Cuesta is not well-documented. According to my grandmother, Santiago's descendants maintained his title Conde de la Reunion de Cuba until her great uncle spent most of the family fortune on lavish parties. When there wasn't much money left, he sold the title. I found this family tree that documents the de la Cuesta family through 1988 (I'm listed as Eva Alexandra Wallman y Hernandez de la Cuesta. Quite a long name!)

Fast forward to the 1930's-50's. My grandmother's father, Pedro de la Cuesta, a successful real estate agent in Havana, married Carmen Alvarez and then my grandmother came along in 1930. Pedro's brother and Carmen's sister were married to each other and had two sons, the younger of whom - Guillermo - is close in age to my grandmother. So my grandmother and Guille are "double cousins" and grew up like brother and sister. My grandparents married in 1952 and then Guille and his wife, Marlene, married several years later. My mother was the flower girl at their wedding! Guille and his wife, Marlene, were also fantastic dancers and traveled to New York in the late 50's to perform at the Waldorf Astoria and on the Steve Allen show.

Guille and Marlene on their wedding day

My mother (on the right) as a flower girl at Guille & Marlene's wedding.

Marlene's bridal shower. My grandmother is the second lady from the right and Marlene is standing. For other family members who are reading: Olga is second on the left followed by Mirtica and Ninfa.

Fast forward again to 1960 - my grandparents left Cuba for the US with my mom and uncle and my grandmother's parents. Guille remained in Cuba with his family. Since the relationship between Cuba and the US has been tumultuous since the Cuban revolution, it hasn't been easy to travel between the two countries. Therefore, my grandmother has only seen Guille and his family in person a few times since she left.

Dinner with the de la Cuestas
After arriving in Havana, I was very excited to finally meet everyone! One evening, they invited us over to their house for a delicious dinner prepared by their daughter, Miriam. She made us a typical Cuban meal - pork, rice, and black beans and it was fabulous (especially the flavor of the black beans). We met Guille, Marlene, their daughters, grand children and great grand children. We spent lots of time talking about family, looking through old photos and newspaper clippings and discussing life in Cuba.

Me with Miriam, Guille & Marlene

Chris with Miriam & Marlen

My cousin Maria Karla with her adorable daughters - Maia (baby) and Maria Alejandra

with Maria Karla

My Grandfather's Side - Hernández
My grandfather's grandfather was a man named José L. Hernández Guzman and he ran several large newspapers in Cuba at the turn of the century, the largest of which was called La Lucha.

His son José L. Hernández Bauza was known for his talents in taxidermy, particularly with birds. Everyone who knew him said he had a natural talent for putting life back into dead birds. His animals are still on display at a museum in Havana and he's been referenced in several bird books.

Both men wore wire-framed tinted glasses all the time - even in an oil portrait!

José L. Hernández Guzman - the newspaper man

José L. Hernández Guzman

José L. Hernández Guzman and his family. The boy on the right was my great-grandfather, José L. Hernández Bauza.

The butterflies were from my great-grandfather, the taxidermist - José L. Hernández Bauza. On the left is a photo of his dad, with the tinted glasses, of course.

This was the home of my great-great grandfather (the one who owned the newspapers). My grandfather's cousin currently lives on the first floor with his wife and daughter.

The interiror of the home hasn't changed much! I showed this picture to my grandfather and he remembered everything - the chandeliers, the vase and even the the marble pedestal by the chair. He told me that back in the day, the maids had to take the glass chandelier down and clean each ball of glass one by one.

My grandfather had a sister very close in age nicknamed Beba, as well as a much younger half-brother named Julio. His brother lives in Miami now and I grew up knowing him and his family, since they had previously lived in Puerto Rico for a long time. I still see them from time to time and several of their children still live in PR. Beba, on the other hand, stayed in Cuba with her husband and my great grandparents. I never had the opportunity to meet them.

Beba & Bebo (my grandfather)

Newspaper clipping of Beba's bridal shower. My grandmother is seated next to her on the right.

Newspaper clipping of Beba on her wedding day

One day we went to visit my grandfather's niece, Tere (Beba's youngest daughter), her husband Miguel, and their son. They picked us up at our casa and brought us to their house, which was nearby in Vedado. This house was built by my grandfather for his sister Beba. She lived there until she passed away in 2003. Now her daughter (Tere) lives there with her family. Tere and Miguel showed us lots of pictures of the family (including the newspaper clippings above). They told me all about Beba and how she was the nicest and happiest person in the world. My grandparents have always said the same thing about her and I'd soon learn that most people felt this way about her. She was clearly a very loved person.

On another day, Tere and Miguel took us on a tour around town and then to visit my grandfather's cousin Mickey, who lives in the beautiful family home pictured above. Mickey was quite a character and told us stories from his days in Africa working for a micro-finance company. Old age left him a bit forgetful and kept turning to Chris and asking the group Who is this giant??? We'd explain, but then he'd forget in about 10 minutes and ask again. It was pretty funny after the the third time. What made it even funnier was that Mickey is only 3 inches shorter than Chris! I guess next to the rest of us, Chris looks like a giant!

We had a wonderful time meeting this part of the family, seeing my great-great-grandfateher's house, and hearing old stories.

With my grandfather's side of the family: Mickey - my grandfather's cousin - is in front. His daughter, Baby is on the left next to Tere, her son Cutu, me and Miguel.

My Grandfather's Buildings
My grandfather is an architect and has built many houses in Puerto Rico, including the one he lives in now. Before Puerto Rico, he built many homes in Havana and in a little beach town right outside of the city named Tarará. It was in this town that he lived with my grandmother, mom, and uncle. Both of his parents and my grandmother's parents lived here as well. He also built the town's yacht club, where Ernest Hemingway kept his boat. In fact, Hemingway docked his boat right next to my grandfather's! Tere had a photo album full of the homes he built during the 1950's. Here are a few:

My great-grandfather's beach house

"Ledon y Hernandez" sign in front of one of their houses. My grandfather's business partner - Ledon - also left Cuba and his sons currently live in Puerto Rico - right down the street from my grandparents.

My grandfather's yacht club in Tarara. The club is no longer there but Tere kept this drawing, which is hanging in her house.

We had a wonderful time with all of our family and really appreciate all their hospitality. I hope it's not too long before we can visit again!

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Days 209-211: Long Journey From Caye Caulker, Belize to Havana, Cuba

12/22/2013

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As mentioned in our last post, we were journeying to Cuba via Mexico City. But getting to Mexico City from Caye Caulker, Belize turned out to be a bit trickier than we'd expected.

Journey Stage 1: Caye Caulker to Mexico
We learned that the most 'efficient' way to go was to take the daily ferry from Caye Caulker to Chetumal, Mexico, which lies on the Mexico-Belize border. Then we'd hop on a flight from Chetumal to Mexico City. There was one catch - there's only one ferry per day from Caye Caulker to Chetumal, and only one flight per day from Chetumal to Mexico City (or to anywhere for that matter).

The daily ferry leaves Caye Caulker at 7am, stopping in Ambergris Caye. It then supposedly departs from there around 8am for the 90-minute ride to Chetumal. This would have put is in Chetumal around 9:30. The daily flight to Mexico City leaves from Chetumal at 11:20, so we thought we'd be there with time to spare.

Of course, we did not take into account Belizian Time (i.e. the notion that schedules are meaningless). It turned out that the customs guy who stamps your passport in Ambergris Caye had overslept and didn't show up for work until around 8:30. This meant we pulled out of Ambergris about 40 minutes late. To make matters worse, the boat driver told us the trip to Chetumal would take closer to two hours that day due to the windy conditions and passing thunderstorm. We told him about our flight and he promised to do his best.

After a tumultuous ferry ride through very choppy water and rain, we ended up pulling into the Chetumal pier just a shade under two hours later, around 10:30. This left us with 50 minutes until our flight. Next, the Mexican customs agents had to line up everyone's luggage on the pier and wait for the drug dogs to sniff through them all...twice. Then, we had to go through the standard immigration procedure at the pier, which included paying $25 each to enter the country. Fortunately, they brought us to the front of the line due to our flight!

We ended up clearing customs around 10:45 - 35 minutes before our flight. We found a cab driver at the pier who, fortunately, was willing to take US Dollars and also had a heavy foot. He got us to the airport in about ten minutes (we tipped him well!), just as our flight check-in was closing. We made it with literally one minute to spare!

So if you are thinking of taking the ferry from Caye Caulker to Chetumal and then catching the only flight out of Chetumal that same day - YES, it is possible, but NO, we do not recommend it!

Journey Stage 2: Mexico City
Our flight on Interjet was wonderful! They provide tons of leg room and free tequila. We met a really nice lady from Argentina on our flight named Patricia. She had lived in Mexico City for a year and was going to back to see some friends. We spent the entire flight talking about traveling in Argentina and Cuba - she had a lot of suggestions! She also gave us a recommendation on where to eat that night in Mexico City. After we landed, the three of us decided to split a taxi to Zocalo, the historic old town of Mexico City. This is where our hotel was located.

It was supposed to take us 15 minutes to get to our hotel. It took 2 HOURS, and we didn't even get all the way there. We eventually got out of the cab and walked the rest of the way through the jammed packed Saturday markets in Zocalo. This was our introduction to Mexico City traffic, which after all of our travels, now holds the title of the worst we've ever seen. Lesson learned - if you show up in Mexico City on a Saturday afternoon, stick to the subway.

We booked one night at the Gran Hotel Ciudad de Mexico, one of the city's beautiful old hotels. It sits just off the central Zocalo. Here are some photos of the building and the surrounding area:

Inside our hotel

View from our room's balcony

Outside Mexico City's beautiful old cathedral on the Zocalo

Happy New Year!

Mexican Food - just what the doctor ordered
We took Patricia's recommendation and hit up Cafe de Tacuba for an early dinner. This old restaurant, a few blocks from our hotel, offered a huge menu of traditional Mexican dishes at great prices. After a long day of stressful traveling, chili rellenos, tamales, tacos and guacamole were just what we needed. Mexican food makes everything better!

Cafe de Tacuba

Journey Stage 3: Off to Havana
The next morning we headed back to the airport to catch our flight to Cuba. Fortunately, the traffic was non-existent early on Sunday morning so we made it to the airport in about 15 minutes. We bought our Cuba visas, checked in for our Interjet flight, and soon were off to Havana.

The flight was uneventful, although at one point the crew made an announcement that the Cuban government requires them to disinfect the interior of the plane and its passengers before arrival, in order to eliminate pathogens. Then, a flight attendant walked up and down the aisle dousing everything with some sort of aerosol spray. After visiting 40 countries, this was the first time we'd seen anything like this.

We arrived in one of Havana's older airline terminals. Going through immigration was a little strange, as you are only allowed to go one at a time (usually Chris and I go through immigration together), and you have to go into a small vestibule with the immigration agent where you wait while they examine your documents. If you pass muster, they unlock a door on the other side of the vestibule and you exit. Then the next person comes in.

Once we passed through immigration and collected our bags, we found our taxi driver who had been called by our Casa Particular (B&B). He showed us where to exchange money, and then we were off to our Casa. As a side note, the exchange rates at the airport are among the worst around, so it's best to exchange as little as possible there, then hit one of the official Cadecas in the city later on.

Upon exiting the airport terminal, we saw a small parking lot surrounded by lush green countryside. The parking lot wasn't completely full of old 1950's American cars as we'd hoped. The cars in Havana are a mix of old American cars from the 50's, lots of small Soviet-made Lada sedans from the 70's and 80's and increasingly, small late-model Hyundais and Kias from Korea. There are also a handful of German luxury sedans cruising around. Our taxi was one of the Hyundais.

Casa de Haifa y Pavel
When Cuba was opened to tourism in the mid-90's, there was a shortage of decent hotels available for people to stay. The government's solution was to allow Cuban citizens to apply for licenses to rent out extra rooms in their homes. These houses are known as Casas Particulares. We had done a bit of research online and knew we wanted to stay in the Vedado neighborhood (just west of central Havana) because it's a nice neighborhood that is close to my family and only a short taxi ride from old Havana. We found a place online that had received great reviews called Casa de Ana y Pepe. Ana, who has one of the oldest continuously operating Casas in the city, was booked (as she usually is), but referred us to a house around the corner called Casa de Haifa y Pavel. We booked a room here for just $30 per night. This is about the average rate for nice Casas Particulares in Havana and represents a great value relative to traditional hotels, where prices are similar to those in other countries. And while Casas are a bargain for travelers, they're also a great source of income for Cuban families, who typically earn an average of about $12 per month from government jobs. Best of all, you get to stay with a Cuban family and see what life is like for ordinary people there.

We were greeted by Pavel, who was excited to have only his second set of American visitors ever! He is a biochemistry professor at the local university and hosts frequent classes and study sessions at the house. Pavel enthusiastically showed us to our room. Our place was around the back of the house with its own entrance, terrace, kitchen and bathroom. The room also had A/C, which we didn't need as it got very cool at night.

Outside our room on our private patio

Sunset behind the house

View of neighboring buildings from our terrace. The buildings run the gamut from good condition to barely habitable. Our casa was in very good condition, likely because Pavel & Haifa can use money earned from renting out their rooms to maintain their large home.

Our private kitchen

Looking out to our terrace

Our habitacion. It was simple, but very quiet, clean and comfortable.

With Pavel and Haifa

We really had a wonderful stay with Pavel and Haifa and enjoyed getting to know them over the next several days. The room was clean and comfortable, and their hospitality was amazing. We had a home cooked breakfast at their house every morning for $5 for the pair of us. This included scrambled eggs, a cheese sandwich, fruit, toast and Cuban coffee which was fantastic!

One night, we all stayed up late discussing the latest American movies and TV shows, about which Pavel and Haifa are much more knowledgeable than we are. Apparently many movies from the US are available in Cuba even before they are available back home. This was just one of many fascinating tidbits we'd discover about Cuba over the coming week.

A couple of nights during the week when we weren't with my family, we ate dinner at Ana & Pepe's house. We had read that the Cuban restaurants can be very expensive and the food is usually sub-par. Ana & Pepe cook meals every night for their guests as well as guests from other casas in the neighborhood, and the prices are reasonable relative to restaurants. So we ate twice with them and got to know them a little better and met other travelers from Hong Kong, Germany and Italy. Like most Cubans, Pepe loves to dance and after dessert he threw on some salsa and gave his guests dancing lessons!

The thing I loved most about Pavel & Haifa and Ana & Pepe was how welcome they make you feel. It reminds me so much of my own family. For example, anyone who visits my grandparents' house is greeted with "welcome to your home in Puerto Rico!". Well, it was the same in Cuba. Both couples insisted we think of their homes as our Cuban homes and by the end of our stay we felt like part of the family.

Stay tuned for the next couple of posts, where I'll introduce you to my family and take you on a tour of the neighborhood and old Havana!

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Traveling to Cuba - Tips for Americans

12/20/2013

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For our last international destination this year, we decided to visit my family in Cuba. My mom, uncle and grandparents left Cuba during the revolution and I've heard countless stories about Havana and my family who still resides there. I couldn't wait to see it all for myself and finally meet the rest of my family in person.

I'll provide more details about our experience in Havana and finally meeting our relatives in the next post. First, I want to talk about getting to Cuba, because traveling there is complicated, especially for US citizens. Therefore, I've put together some tips based on what we learned from our trip.

The Embargo
The USA still imposes an embargo against Cuba. It has been active since 1962, when the Cuban government nationalized everything, including the property of US citizens and corporations. The embargo was codified into law in the 90's, imposing further restrictions on Cuba unless the country moved toward democratization. This means that legally, most Americans cannot spend money in Cuba.

There are exceptions.

We Traveled Legally

***UPDATE*** As of December 2014, restrictions for US citizens traveling to Cuba have been relaxed. Please read the latest guidelines from the US Government here.

The Obama administration eased the travel ban in 2009, allowing Cuban-Americans to travel freely to Cuba. Students, religious missionaries, journalists, researchers and other special interest groups may visit if they meet specific requirements and apply for authorization from the Treasury Department. In all cases, Americans must have a purpose to travel to Cuba other than tourism - whether it's to see family, volunteer, or participate in some kind of research project.

Our purpose was to meet and spend time with our family and see the neighborhoods where my grandparents lived and my mom was born. We read the government's guidelines, which permit Cuban-Americans to travel to Cuba as long as they have "close relatives" living there, defined as any individual related by blood, marriage, or adoptions who is no more than three generations removed from the visitor. You are also supposed to adhere to the US Government's per diem spending limit for Havana. As we'll discuss in the next post, this is very easy to do in Cuba.

If you are a US citizen without close relatives residing in Cuba and are interested in traveling to Cuba within the US government's guidelines read this document to see if you qualify for any special licenses.

Money
Since US banks can have no relationship with Cuban financial institutions, US ATM and credit cards won't work anywhere in Cuba. This means you'll need to bring all your cash with you. Even if you are not American, it's smart to bring a lot of cash with you as we've heard the ATMs are few and far between and can be very unreliable. Traveling with a lot of cash is a bit unnerving so take precautions - wear a money belt, keep your cash in several different places, and buy locks for all your bags. Cuba is a relatively safe country, but it's always best to be careful.

Exchanging Money
You can only convert money into Cuban currency when in Cuba - it is not available in any foreign countries. The Cuban government imposes an additional tax of 10% when converting US Dollars to the local currency - this does not apply to other currencies. Therefore, it can be more cost effective to convert your dollars to a third currency before going (ie Mexican Pesos or Euros), and then convert that currency to Cuban money when you arrive. This will depend on the exchange rate you're able to get. Since we were going to be passing through Mexico on the way to Cuba, we withdrew Mexican Pesos from the ATM there which ended up being much more cost effective than bringing US Dollars.

Cuba has two currencies - Pesos and Convertible Pesos - or as they are referred to locally, CUPs ("coops" or "pesos nacionales") or CUCs ("cukes"). Almost everything a visitor will buy is priced in CUCs. The CUC is fixed to the US Dollar 1:1. However, local people who work government jobs (which is the vast majority of Cubans) are paid in CUPs. A CUP is worth about five cents. These can be used to buy government subsidized necessities, such as staple foods, utilities or basic clothing. We never ended up receiving or needing any CUPs while we were there. For anything over and above these necessities that locals wish to buy, they will also likely need CUCs.

Only change money in official casas de cambio - usually called Cadecas. You will need your passport to exchange money. Hustlers will come up to you on the street and tell you there is a third currency in Cuba that has a much better exchange rate, but only Cubans are allowed to exchange the money - not tourists. They will then offer to exchange your money for you. Don't fall for this and never give your cash to anyone else to exchange (unless it's someone you know and trust). These hustlers take all shapes and sizes - well dressed business men, kids, and older gentlemen. Just tell them that you are out for a walk and don't have any money on you. Eventually they will go away.

Departure Fee
You are required to pay a departure fee of $25 CUCs ($25 USD) per person. When you arrive, exchange some money for CUCs at the airport and save $25 CUCs in your passport for your departure fee.

Flights
Since there are only a handful of direct charter flights from the US to Havana, we found it easier - and more cost-effective - to travel through a third country. Since we were in Belize before going to Cuba, we booked a flight leaving from Mexico City. Originally we'd planned to travel from Cancun, but the flight ended up being sold out on the days we wanted to travel. Also, the flight from Cancun was on Cubana Airlines, which made purchasing the flight with our US credit card challenging (Cubana also 'boasts' the worst airline safety record in the world, which made us a bit uneasy). We ended up flying on Chris' new favorite airline, Interjet. All visitors to Cuba are required to obtain a visa/tourist card before arriving - in our case, we were able to buy this when we checked in for our flight for about $19 each.

Internet
Internet is very scarce in Cuba. There are a few internet cafes and some hotels or casa particulares (B&Bs) offer access but the rates are very high and the internet speed is extremely slow. For example, Chris needed to send one important email while we were there and it cost $5/hour and it took him 20 minutes to send one email. If you plan on traveling to Cuba, let your friends, family and colleagues know that you will be off the grid and consider activating an automatic response on your email letting people know when you'll be back. We also sent the telephone number of our casa particular (B&B) to our parents so they knew how to reach us in case of an emergency.

The lack of internet connection means you should book everything before you leave. It also means you must research everything too. While we don't usually buy guidebooks when we travel since we can look up everything online, we would recommend buying one for Cuba. If a question comes to mind while traveling, ask a local (Cubans are very friendly!) and jot it down in a notebook so you can look it up when you get home. You might find that you get two different answers! It was useful for us to have family there, as we were able to get a lot of helpful tips, advice, and perspective.

Health Insurance
Your health insurance is probably not valid in Cuba (definitely not if it's an American company or is affiliated with one). Therefore, you must purchase the Cuban government health insurance for the duration of your trip. It's not expensive - about $5/day - and you can buy it from many different agents online. Make sure you print out proof of health insurance before you go as you may be required to show it to officials at the airport. More importantly, you'll need it if you happen to need medical care while there. This didn't happen to us, but you never know.

We hope these tips prove helpful. Stay tuned for the next post where we'll talk about our (stressful) journey from Belize to Havana!

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10 Tropical Getaways For Winter 2016

For the Diver: Caye Caulker, Belize

For the Surfer: Rincon, Puerto Rico

For the Adventurous Beach Bum: Tulum, Mexico

For (Almost) Guaranteed Sun: Eagle Beach, Aruba

For the Thrill Seeker: Arenal, Costa Rica

For the Culture Seeker: Havana, Cuba

For the Romantic: Cartagena, Colombia

For the Family: Fajardo, Puerto Rico

For the Sailor: Tortola & Virgin Gorda, BVI

For the Glitz & Glam: Miami

Where to Stay in Havana, Cuba: The Casa Particular

DAYS 212-218: Havana, Cuba Photo Tour

Days 212-218: Meeting family in Cuba

Days 209-211: Long Journey From Caye Caulker, Belize to Havana, Cuba

Traveling to Cuba - Tips for Americans

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10 Tropical Getaways For Winter 2016

For the Diver: Caye Caulker, Belize

​For the Surfer: Rincon, Puerto Rico

​For the Adventurous Beach Bum: Tulum, Mexico

​For (Almost) Guaranteed Sun: Eagle Beach, Aruba

​For the Thrill Seeker: Arenal, Costa Rica

​For the Culture Seeker: Havana, Cuba

​For the Romantic: Cartagena, Colombia

​For the Family: Fajardo, Puerto Rico

​For the Sailor: Tortola & Virgin Gorda, BVI

For the Glitz & Glam: Miami

Where to Stay in Havana, Cuba: The Casa Particular

DAYS 212-218: Havana, Cuba Photo Tour

Days 212-218: Meeting family in Cuba

Days 209-211: Long Journey From Caye Caulker, Belize to Havana, Cuba

Traveling to Cuba - Tips for Americans

Author

Archives

Categories

For the Surfer: Rincon, Puerto Rico

For the Adventurous Beach Bum: Tulum, Mexico

For (Almost) Guaranteed Sun: Eagle Beach, Aruba

For the Thrill Seeker: Arenal, Costa Rica

For the Culture Seeker: Havana, Cuba

For the Romantic: Cartagena, Colombia

For the Family: Fajardo, Puerto Rico

For the Sailor: Tortola & Virgin Gorda, BVI