Ok folks, I've been getting a lot of questions about Turkey lately. Despite the political turmoil last summer, this destination is still on top of many a bucket list - and for good reason.  This country has a lot to offer - fascinating history,  idyllic beaches and unique landscapes that look more like Mars than Eurasia.  It's no surprise that tourism to Turkey continues to climb, up 14%  in July!

Below are the questions I've received recently along with my answers.  If you are interested in learning more about my trip a few years ago, check out my   Turkey page.

Q: I have two weeks. What should I do?
A:  While this recommendation depends greatly on one's interests, I'd break up the two weeks as follows:

4 days in Istanbul
3 days in Cappadocia
1 day Pamukkale
2 days in Ephesus/Sirince
4 days along Turquoise Coast (we loved Kas but the entire coast line is stunning)

[Pictured Above] Kaputas Beach near Kas.  Beach lovers will adore the Turquoise Coast!

Q: I want to visit Istanbul, Ephesus and Cappadocia. What is the best way to get around between cities?
A:  Turkey is a big country and since most people have a limited amount of time to see it,  I recommend flying between major locations.  We took Pegasus Air - Turkey's budget airline - which was a fraction of the price of Turkish Airlines at the time.  On a tight budget? No worries.  I've talked to many people who have taken overnight buses in between destinations.  The buses were modern coaches and, although a little uncomfortable, it saves you money so you can book a room at a cave hotel or try hot air ballooning in Cappadocia.  

Q: Is it safe to drive a rental car in Turkey?
A: It depends on your tolerance for craziness.  Chris drove, and it was a little intimidating, but once out of the cities, he said it wasn't terrible.  If you decide to drive, here is some advice:

• Drivers in Turkey are aggressive and impatient. Avoid driving in Istanbul as this was the most intimidating.
  
• Watch out for farm equipment, tractors and bicycles in the road.
  
• The speed limit is 90km/h on a 2 lane road, 110 km/h on a divided one, 50 km/h in cities villages etc. These may or may not be posted, people may or may not abide but checks are frequent. 
  
• Look BOTH ways when a light turns green because there usually are a few cars that run through the red light. 
  
• People don't usually stop at stop signs so be careful. 
  
• Go slowly on mountain roads.  Speeding and passing is common and since the roads are narrow you'll want to have time to avoid oncoming cars. 
  
• Sometimes two lane roads in one direction will quickly change to one lane roads going in both directions. This changes with little to no warning - you'll just see an oncoming car in your lane! A good practice is to stay in the right lane unless you need to pass.

Keep in mind that we are from the US where driving tends to be a little less stressful (yes, even in Boston).  If you are reading this from, say Peru or Thailand, driving in Turkey will be a breeze. 

[Pictured Above] Our car rental was a burnt orange Volvo sedan.  All it needs is a longhorn on the grille.....

Q: I really want to try a hot air balloon ride in Cappadocia. Is it safe?
A:  Well,  it certainly has its risks!  Just like scuba diving, bungee jumping, parasailing, or driving in Turkey there is a chance something could go wrong.  However, unlike many of those activities, all you have to do is relax, enjoy the view and trust your pilot.  Take some comfort in knowing that these companies have been ballooning here for a long time and hundreds of flights are completed successfully every day.  All hot air balloons are regulated, licensed and must carry insurance. Pilots must meet specific skill and health requirements.  Our flight with Butterfly Balloons was one of the most serene experiences I've ever encountered during my travels. There is no better way to see the other-worldly landscape of the Cappadocia region!

[Pictured Above] Balloons floating over Cappadocia's fairy chimneys (pic taken from our balloon).  Hundreds of balloons fly every day.

Q:Is it safe for female travelers?
A: For the most part, yes!   I've never been to Eastern Turkey so I can't comment on that part of the country. However, I felt very safe in Western & Central Turkey. Turkey is incredibly diverse (It is the crossroads of the world), full of visitors and friendly locals.  As a female traveler (especially solo), there are precautions you must take, but they are the same precautions you'd take in most destinations.  In Istanbul, I didn't see many local women wandering solo - they were usually with men, other women or their children. Tourists, however, were comprised of all sorts of demographics, including females traveling alone.  Women may feel more comfortable dressing slightly more conservatively, as to not attract unwelcome attention from men. Similar to European countries like Italy or Spain, men might stare, cat call or approach a woman in hopes of winning her favor (by the way, does this EVER work?).  Just tell them you are on your way to meet your boyfriend/husband and they should back off. 

Q: (From a female traveler) What should I pack? Can I wear shorts?
A: Yes! But keep in mind that you won't be able to enter many religious sites if your legs below the knee and shoulders are exposed.  I wore a midi skirt (hit just below the knee), a tank top and carried a scarf to cover my head & shoulders when necessary.  Also, many women here dress conservatively so, at times, you may feel more comfortable wearing a longer skirt or capri pants.  One day I stepped outside of my hotel room in Sultanahmet in a pair of short shorts and after walking down the street for two minutes, I went back to the hotel and changed into my midi skirt because people were staring.  I didn't wear the shorts again in Istanbul, but I did wear them at the beach with no problems (People are far less conservative at the beach and many women wear bikinis).   Like most large cities, people in Istanbul tend to dress stylishly so pack like you were going to Barcelona or New York.

[Pictured Above]  A mid length skirt, tank top and scarf (in my bag) make a perfect outfit for seeing the sites in Istanbul.

Jamestown is located on Conanicut Island along the southern coast of Rhode Island, accessible from either Newport or Narragansett by bridge.  You may not have heard of Jamestown because it's often overshadowed by its more famous neighbor - Newport - home of the elaborate summer mansions of the United States' wealthiest families like the Vanderbilts, Astors and Weideners.  While Newport is definitely worth a visit for its history, opulence and charm, Jamestown is worth visiting for its outdoor activities, laid back vibe, and tasty shrimp tacos.  More on those tacos later. 

 One of my old friends from Google, Beth, had moved to Jamestown several years ago and now owns a surf shop called Jamestown Outdoors  where one can rent  bikes, kayaks, stand up paddle boards and surf boards.  We arrived late Saturday morning and stopped by the shop where we caught up with Beth, her husband Jason and two adorable daughters, Kailah and Maren.  Jamestown Outdoors recently opened retail space on Narragansett Ave - the main commercial street - making it a perfect place to pick up and drop off bikes because you can visit the nearby shops and restaurants before or after your ride.  If you end up renting a house on the island, Jamestown Outdoors will deliver and pick up equipment, so you can explore the island by land or water throughout the entire duration of your trip.  

[Pictured Above] Jamestown Outdoors owner, Beth. One of the nicest people you will ever meet!  [Pictured Below] Jamestown Outdoors surf shop interior.  How cute is that sign?!  

The t-shirts were delightfully soft so Chis bought one and now he wears it all the time (It's already been to Costa Rica)!

Outside the shop along Narragansett Ave are charming stores, restaurants and this quaint firehouse:

Beth gave us a map and recommended a few routes.  We chose a 13-mile hilly route that brought us to The Shack at Dutch Harbor, Mackerel Cove, Beavertail State Park & Lighthouse, Hull Beach and Fort Wetherill State Park.  Here is the approximate route we took:

By the time we arrived in Jamestown, we were starving and needed to fuel up before our long bike ride. Beth highly recommended the tacos at The Shack.  Mexican food and tacos are probably my favorite food genre.  Since really good tacos are hard to find in New England, I was expecting The Shack to be okay. I totally underestimated it! This place serves the most phenomenal shrimp taco I've ever had. Now those of you partial to really spicy tacos may be a bit disappointed, but if you are seeking flavor and fresh ingredients then you will find it here. It's a MUST if you ever visit Jamestown and well worth going out of your way for if you are anywhere in Rhode Island, southern Massachusetts or eastern Connecticut.  Who knew my favorite taco would be in Rhode Island?!?!

The small, but mighty Shack:

Get excited, because here is a picture of my half eaten shrimp taco.  I don't often photograph my food, however, I had to capture the moment after the first bite.  Notice I also ordered a veg taco which was tasty, but paled in comparison to the shrimp.

After The Shack, we rode across Mackerel Cove and onto the southern part of the island.  After a few challenging hills (for me anyway), we rode down to the southern most point to see Beavertail Lighthouse, one of the oldest lighthouses in New England.  

[Pictured Above] Compass rose over the foundation of the original lighthouse.  The original lighthouse was destroyed by a hurricane in 1938. [Pictured Below] One of many couples picnicking by the the lighthouse.  This area is also popular for weddings. We witnessed two outdoor weddings on our way back.

On our way back up the south island, we stopped off at Hull Cove, which is a popular spot for surfing. It was low tide when we arrived which meant no surfing.  However, low tide exposed the spectacular colors of the ocean floor. Check it out:

Needless to say, I was one happy photographer :)

Toward the end of our ride we wandered through residential areas with beautiful homes. Some, like the one below, were as big as the mansions in Newport:

Other homes were architecturally interesting, like this circular house built into a rock. 

As we rode back to town, we saw signs for scuba diving lessons at Fort Wetherill State Park.  We followed the signs to this lovely little cove where divers, swimmers and sunbathers gathered:

Upon looking in the other direction, we noticed a "No Swimming" sign. Clearly it was a rule that was not being enforced because scofflaws of all ages were enjoying the water.  We also saw a group of scuba divers emerge from the water and thought this might be a good place to try our first New England dive (if I can ever get the courage to swim in the cold water). 

By the end of our ride, we were exhausted and pretty sweaty. We dropped off our bikes at the shop and headed back to Boston for a shower and a big dinner (that, sadly, was not shrimp tacos from The Shack).  Big thanks to Beth & Jason from Jamestown Outdoors for holding a pair of bikes for us and for all your insights on the island!  

Our short visit to Costa Rica culminated with my cousin Mirta's wedding on Saturday night.  If you have been reading Beyond Voyage for a while, you may remember Mirta from when we randomly found each other in Barcelona one night. Fast forward one year and she is marrying the love of her life in her hometown near San Jose, Costa Rica.  After hours of dancing, laughing, eating, drinking, talking and smiling, all I can say is that there is no party like a Costa Rican party!  This fiesta was phenomenal! 

Firstly, we dressed up in formal attire which is always fun, especially when in another country.  Being Mr. & Mrs.  Type A, we arrived at the church in Escazu a half hour early.  No one was there and I had a slight panic attack that our navigation led us astray.  Soon we spotted a few dashing wedding guests in their formal finery and confirmed that we were, in fact, at the right place. We were also informed that in Costa Rica, weddings rarely start on time so we were WAY early. While we waited,  we strolled around the church, greeted a few nuns, and took this selfie in the garden:

The ceremony was in a beautiful stone church in the center of the neighborhood plaza.  There were gorgeous flower arrangements of lilies and hydrangeas lining the aisle and covering the altar.  I also loved the twinkling candle-lit chandeliers hanging over the pews.  Since we were there early, we watched an attendant light each candle individually. It was a nice change of pace from the battery powered "candles" we saw in all the European churches. 

The processional began just as the sun was setting, casting a gold light through the church doors.   The church was packed and, although we didn't know most of the people there, we could tell there was a lot of love in that room for the couple and families. 

After the ceremony we drove back to the hotel for the reception.  We had no idea what was in store for us that night! Having worked in the advertising & media world,  I've been to my fair share of nice parties and this one rivaled some of the best.  Not just because of the beautiful decor, the amazing band, the DJ, and delicious food  - but because of the people and the incredible energy in the room. Everyone was so much fun!  We enjoyed catching up with family we hadn't seen in a long time and meeting new family and friends.  Honestly, in Costa Rica, everyone might as well be family because they are the warmest, nicest and happiest people (which is no surprise CR is considered the happiest place in the world according to the World Database of Happiness). I wish I had taken more pictures but I was too busy dancing!  Here are a few Chris captured on his phone:

[Pictured Above] The newlyweds - Mirta & Mariano!!!! [Pictured Below] My cousins Angie & Jessica

[Pictured Above] Our table "Joy".  [Pictured Below] One of the many fun traditions that was new to me - all the girls joined the bride on stage for a sing-a-long.

One thing you may not know about Latin American weddings is that they last all night long.  Sometime after midnight, the party turned into a carnival theme.  Not the kind of carnival we have in the States with clowns and cotton candy - but the carnival they have in Brazil or Spain, complete with crazy hats, party favors and...wait for it... body paint. GLOW IN THE DARK BODY PAINT!  Black lights emerged from somewhere and the dance floor was aglow with swirling colors. They also passed out plush slippers for the ladies and served another round of food (including chifrijo!!!) to help sustain us through the next phase of the night.  The band signed off, the DJ tower came on and people literally started dancing on tables. 

[Pictured Above]  Signs of a GREAT wedding: body paint, boas and crazy head gear. I was glowing, literally!
[Pictured Below]  Flower power body paint down my back. Every wedding should have body painters! 

[Pictured Below]  We were dancing on couches at 2am. The last time I did this might have been the last time I was in CR ten years ago.  Also, you may have noticed that the body paint is not quite as fabulous without the black light...

Not surprisingly, we didn't make it to the end of the party.  Around 2am we retired to our room upstairs and slept soundly with full hearts & bellies.  

MUCHISIMAS GRACIAS to Mirta Sofia, Mariano and our Costa Rica family for an unforgettable evening. Our only regret was that we didn't stay in town longer.  Next time we will take more than just a couple of days off for our visit. Hasta la proxima vez! 

In my last post, I raved about whitewater rafting in Costa Rica.  Since it was my first time rafting, I wasn't sure what to wear, so I read online reviews, all of which recommended shorts, water shoes and a quick dry top.  With the exception of water shoes, I followed this general recommendation. However, after rafting, I learned a few things that would have been helpful to know beforehand. Had I known then what I know now, I would have packed differently. 

This is what I wore on the boat:

Pictured Above: 1. Old Navy Quick Dry Top  2.  Nike Pro Sports Bra  3. Lululemon Running Shorts  4. Merrill Barefoot Dash Glove Running Shoes  5.  Puma Ankle Socks  6. Nikon Coolpix Waterproof Camera

Pictured Above: 1. Old Navy Quick Dry Top  2.  Nike Pro Sports Bra  3. Compression Shorts  4. Keen Water Sandals  5.  Sport Sunglasses with Croakies   6. Nikon Coolpix Waterproof Camera

I'd keep the dry fit top, sports bra and camera per my note above. 

I'd replace the Lululemon running shorts with a pair of compression shorts that won't ride up the leg or threaten to stretch and fall down when swimming (or jumping into the water).  Important: If you have sensitive skin or allergies to rubber, wear longer shorts or sport leggings. You sit on the rubber raft for two hours, so take care not to irritate your skin.  The brand of shorts really depends on the person. I'd probably buy a cheap pair from Old Navy since they are going in the river.

I'd leave behind the sneakers and pack a pair of sturdy water sandals. These could have been useful for the entire trip in Costa Rica as they are sturdy enough for hikes and and canyoning  and quick drying after swimming in rivers and waterfalls.  The covered toe protects your feet from rocks and other sharp items at the bottom of rivers  and lakes.

I didn't wear sunglassses on the raft for two reasons - 1.  It wasn't sunny  2.  I didn't have croakies and I was afraid of losing the glasses.  I wish I'd worn them because the water was constantly splashing in my face and getting into my eyes. I wore contacts so I was regularly closing my eyes or making a funny face trying to adjust the lenses. 

Also, remember to pack waterproof sunscreen, a plastic bag for your wet clothes, and a change of clothes. 

For the guys:
Guys should avoid cotton clothing and go with a quick dry shirt, board shorts/swim trunks and water shoes.   Chris wore a cotton shirt and it stretched out quite a bit.