We had a 4am wake-up call on day two in the Amazon. We ate breakfast at the Gryffendor table. In lieu of coffee, I tried the hot chocolate, which was fantastic. After several cups, we ventured out on a trek to see some otters in a nearby lake. We walked down to our boat through a blue mist and when arrived at the river we could see the sun rise in the distance.
Peaceful start to day 2 in the Amazon
We took the boat up river about 10 minutes and then we had to hike about 20 minutes to find the lake. The lake used to be a turn in the river and eventually was closed off due to sediment. It's home to a variety of animals including a family of otters, caymans, piranhas and birds. Once we arrived at the lake, we boarded a jury rigged pontoon boat, which consisted of two canoes connected by some wooden boards with benches nailed atop. As we began to float across the small lake, the sun began to rise and light up the jungle around us.
The lake
We never spotted those wily otters, but we did see our fair share of birds and we even fished for piranhas. Piranhas are difficult to catch because they nibble at the bait instead of swallowing it one bite. They are fast and agile and your bait quickly disappears from your hook. We used bits of raw beef and those picky piranhas only ate the red meat and left the fat. I was the first non jungle native to catch one!
My piranha!
Piranha close up. He threw it back in the water after showing us the teeth.
Hoatzin - one of the many birds we saw on the lake.
After spending about an hour on the lake, the sun began to strengthen so we headed back to the lodge for a snack of cheese croissants and passion fruit juice and then prepared for our next expedition: the Macaw clay lick.
Chris, on our way back to the lodge.
The clay lick consisted of a clay wall along the river bank. Macaws gather here to lick the clay when they feel completely safe from predators. Therefore, we had to sit in a hidden hut and remain very quiet while we waited for the macaws to show up.
Question for class 2A: Why do macaws lick clay?
When we arrived, we noticed a hawk perched on a branch near the clay lick. This was bad news for us because macaws are afraid of hawks. Eventually the hawk flew away and we noticed 8 or 9 macaws in the tree tops above, still very far away. Our guide noticed that they began to descend little by little toward the clay lick and we were very optimistic that we'd be able to see them up close. However, another hawk showed up and scared them away. Then a couple of loud boats came by and sealed the deal. No macaw close-ups for us.
Question for class 2A: Why do macaws lick clay?
When we arrived, we noticed a hawk perched on a branch near the clay lick. This was bad news for us because macaws are afraid of hawks. Eventually the hawk flew away and we noticed 8 or 9 macaws in the tree tops above, still very far away. Our guide noticed that they began to descend little by little toward the clay lick and we were very optimistic that we'd be able to see them up close. However, another hawk showed up and scared them away. Then a couple of loud boats came by and sealed the deal. No macaw close-ups for us.
The macaw-less clay lick
Now, it may sound really boring sitting in a hut waiting to see macaws for an hour, but it turned out to be quite entertaining. First, the interaction between the hawks and the macaws was fascinating to witness. We also had some human entertainment from the other guide, Willian. He had been assigned to the Indian family with the young child (about 3 years old). They showed up after we had been waiting in the hut for about 30 minutes. The baby was sleeping, so we were in good shape. However, as the macaws started to descend the baby woke up and Willian tried his best to keep him quiet. This consisted of breaking off pieces of nature and pretending they were toys, dancing, and then finally he resorted to attempting to rationalize with the baby, asking him politely to go back to sleep. None of these tactics was successful and the baby's mom had to take him away from the hut. While Willian did not succeed in calming the baby, he managed to make us laugh.
We later witnessed Willian wearing the baby Bjorn with the 3 year old in it while hiking back to the lodge. He was sporting an supressed grimace on his face.
On our way back to the lodge we happened upon a group of squirrel monkeys eating fruit in a palm tree. We had to go off the main path to see them but it was worth it! We enjoyed watching them jump from treetop to treetop. Our guide, Robin, got really close with our camera and snapped a couple of great shots:
We later witnessed Willian wearing the baby Bjorn with the 3 year old in it while hiking back to the lodge. He was sporting an supressed grimace on his face.
On our way back to the lodge we happened upon a group of squirrel monkeys eating fruit in a palm tree. We had to go off the main path to see them but it was worth it! We enjoyed watching them jump from treetop to treetop. Our guide, Robin, got really close with our camera and snapped a couple of great shots:
Squirrel Monkey
After lunch at the Gryffendor table, we had a little siesta before our afternoon adventure - visiting the chaman. The people of the Infierno often can't afford modern healthcare. Therefore they turn to the local chaman who uses native plants to treat a variety of aliments. The chaman also serves as a spiritual guide, and many people from the area take a hallucinogen called Ayahuasca while in his care, in order to see their future and understand their purpose in the world.
We had to take a boat about 15 mins along the river to arrive at his farm/clinic. We then took a tour of his farm. The chaman doesn't speak English so Robin (who once trained as a chaman's apprentice) translated for the group. Here were some of the things we saw:
We had to take a boat about 15 mins along the river to arrive at his farm/clinic. We then took a tour of his farm. The chaman doesn't speak English so Robin (who once trained as a chaman's apprentice) translated for the group. Here were some of the things we saw:
Ayahuasca - a hallucinogen used by many in Amazonian Peru. People who have consumed ayahuasca report having massive spiritual revelations regarding their purpose on earth. The chaman said this helps rid people of evil spirits. In order to take Ayahuasca, one must refrain from alcohol, tobacco, red meat, and many other things for many months in advance.
Cat's claw - they use this to treat many ailments including stomach ulcers.
I think this was the plant they used to make love potion. The chaman mixes it with a liquid and sells it to men. They must place the liquid on the skin of the desired lady, leave immediately and avoid seeing her for the next 3 days. After 3 days, she will be completely in love with him. The chaman was very serious about this!
This plant is a natural Viagra. It was pure luck that the older gentleman showed up for the photo.
We saw a few other plants including:
-Chuchuhuasi - painkiller
-Cordoncillo - used to make Novocain. We chewed some of the leaves and sure enough, our mouths went numb.
-Sanipanga - used as a red dye
At the end of the tour we sampled a couple of elixers which all tasted the same - like strong cough syrup.
After our visit to the chaman, we went back to the lodge for dinner. Right after dinner a few of us went on a night hike with Robin which turned out to be almost deadly.
We made our way through complete darkness in search of creatures of the night with only a few flashlights to guide the way. The first thing we happened upon was a colony of bullet ants having their way with some sort of shrub. Robin cautioned us to keep our distance from these massive, venomous ants, before proceeding to get bit by one of them. All was well, however, as he claimed he'd built up an immunity to them over the years (though still very painful!).
We were all now thoroughly worried about what other sorts of things we might unknowingly brush up against in the darkness of the Amazonian night. A few minutes later, someone's flashlight caught a spider descending from a tree right between the two Canadian girls. Intrigued, someone asked Robin what sort of spider it was. Robin immediately freaked out and pushed everyone away from the spider. He explained it was a Wandering Spider, one of the world's deadliest. He then proceeded to probe the spider with a stick, which I'm sure the spider appreciated. At this point (about 10 minutes into the 40 minute hike), Robin decided it was best to head back. On the short walk back to the lodge we also saw a tarantula and a wolf spider. All in all, a short but successful night hike, mainly because we made it back alive.
Upon our return to the lodge, folks were hanging out at the bar. William called me over saying he had something to show me. Already suspicious, I slowly approached him knowing he had something up his sleeve. He literally did. He straightened his arm and out crawled a giant tarantula. I was worried the spider would bite him, especially after our encounters on the night hike, but he told me that even if it bit him, it would just itch like a mosquito bite. He then passed the tarantula off to one of the other guides at the bar who escorted it back into the woods.
We spent the next few hours draining a bottle of Pisco with Robin, the Canadian girls and their Peruvian guide. We learned a little more about Peruvian foods (including brains), marriage customs (most don't get married because they can't afford it) and shared a few laughs.
I slept a lot better that night, and the next morning we departed around 8am for our journey back to Cusco. Below are a few more shots from the beautiful Amazon.
-Chuchuhuasi - painkiller
-Cordoncillo - used to make Novocain. We chewed some of the leaves and sure enough, our mouths went numb.
-Sanipanga - used as a red dye
At the end of the tour we sampled a couple of elixers which all tasted the same - like strong cough syrup.
After our visit to the chaman, we went back to the lodge for dinner. Right after dinner a few of us went on a night hike with Robin which turned out to be almost deadly.
We made our way through complete darkness in search of creatures of the night with only a few flashlights to guide the way. The first thing we happened upon was a colony of bullet ants having their way with some sort of shrub. Robin cautioned us to keep our distance from these massive, venomous ants, before proceeding to get bit by one of them. All was well, however, as he claimed he'd built up an immunity to them over the years (though still very painful!).
We were all now thoroughly worried about what other sorts of things we might unknowingly brush up against in the darkness of the Amazonian night. A few minutes later, someone's flashlight caught a spider descending from a tree right between the two Canadian girls. Intrigued, someone asked Robin what sort of spider it was. Robin immediately freaked out and pushed everyone away from the spider. He explained it was a Wandering Spider, one of the world's deadliest. He then proceeded to probe the spider with a stick, which I'm sure the spider appreciated. At this point (about 10 minutes into the 40 minute hike), Robin decided it was best to head back. On the short walk back to the lodge we also saw a tarantula and a wolf spider. All in all, a short but successful night hike, mainly because we made it back alive.
Upon our return to the lodge, folks were hanging out at the bar. William called me over saying he had something to show me. Already suspicious, I slowly approached him knowing he had something up his sleeve. He literally did. He straightened his arm and out crawled a giant tarantula. I was worried the spider would bite him, especially after our encounters on the night hike, but he told me that even if it bit him, it would just itch like a mosquito bite. He then passed the tarantula off to one of the other guides at the bar who escorted it back into the woods.
We spent the next few hours draining a bottle of Pisco with Robin, the Canadian girls and their Peruvian guide. We learned a little more about Peruvian foods (including brains), marriage customs (most don't get married because they can't afford it) and shared a few laughs.
I slept a lot better that night, and the next morning we departed around 8am for our journey back to Cusco. Below are a few more shots from the beautiful Amazon.
Sunset over the Amazon
Unsuccessfully trying to dry our clothes in the humid Amazon.
RSS Feed
