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Costa Rica Wedding!!!

8/14/2014

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Our short visit to Costa Rica culminated with my cousin Mirta's wedding on Saturday night.  If you have been reading Beyond Voyage for a while, you may remember Mirta from when we randomly found each other in Barcelona one night. Fast forward one year and she is marrying the love of her life in her hometown near San Jose, Costa Rica.  After hours of dancing, laughing, eating, drinking, talking and smiling, all I can say is that there is no party like a Costa Rican party!  This fiesta was phenomenal! 

Firstly, we dressed up in formal attire which is always fun, especially when in another country.  Being Mr. & Mrs.  Type A, we arrived at the church in Escazu a half hour early.  No one was there and I had a slight panic attack that our navigation led us astray.  Soon we spotted a few dashing wedding guests in their formal finery and confirmed that we were, in fact, at the right place. We were also informed that in Costa Rica, weddings rarely start on time so we were WAY early. While we waited,  we strolled around the church, greeted a few nuns, and took this selfie in the garden:
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The ceremony was in a beautiful stone church in the center of the neighborhood plaza.  There were gorgeous flower arrangements of lilies and hydrangeas lining the aisle and covering the altar.  I also loved the twinkling candle-lit chandeliers hanging over the pews.  Since we were there early, we watched an attendant light each candle individually. It was a nice change of pace from the battery powered "candles" we saw in all the European churches. 
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The processional began just as the sun was setting, casting a gold light through the church doors.   The church was packed and, although we didn't know most of the people there, we could tell there was a lot of love in that room for the couple and families. 
After the ceremony we drove back to the hotel for the reception.  We had no idea what was in store for us that night! Having worked in the advertising & media world,  I've been to my fair share of nice parties and this one rivaled some of the best.  Not just because of the beautiful decor, the amazing band, the DJ, and delicious food  - but because of the people and the incredible energy in the room. Everyone was so much fun!  We enjoyed catching up with family we hadn't seen in a long time and meeting new family and friends.  Honestly, in Costa Rica, everyone might as well be family because they are the warmest, nicest and happiest people (which is no surprise CR is considered the happiest place in the world according to the World Database of Happiness). I wish I had taken more pictures but I was too busy dancing!  Here are a few Chris captured on his phone:
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[Pictured Above] The newlyweds - Mirta & Mariano!!!! [Pictured Below] My cousins Angie & Jessica
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[Pictured Above] Our table "Joy".  [Pictured Below] One of the many fun traditions that was new to me - all the girls joined the bride on stage for a sing-a-long.
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One thing you may not know about Latin American weddings is that they last all night long.  Sometime after midnight, the party turned into a carnival theme.  Not the kind of carnival we have in the States with clowns and cotton candy - but the carnival they have in Brazil or Spain, complete with crazy hats, party favors and...wait for it... body paint. GLOW IN THE DARK BODY PAINT!  Black lights emerged from somewhere and the dance floor was aglow with swirling colors. They also passed out plush slippers for the ladies and served another round of food (including chifrijo!!!) to help sustain us through the next phase of the night.  The band signed off, the DJ tower came on and people literally started dancing on tables. 
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[Pictured Above]  Signs of a GREAT wedding: body paint, boas and crazy head gear. I was glowing, literally!
[Pictured Below]  Flower power body paint down my back. Every wedding should have body painters! 
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[Pictured Below]  We were dancing on couches at 2am. The last time I did this might have been the last time I was in CR ten years ago.  Also, you may have noticed that the body paint is not quite as fabulous without the black light...
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Not surprisingly, we didn't make it to the end of the party.  Around 2am we retired to our room upstairs and slept soundly with full hearts & bellies.  

MUCHISIMAS GRACIAS to Mirta Sofia, Mariano and our Costa Rica family for an unforgettable evening. Our only regret was that we didn't stay in town longer.  Next time we will take more than just a couple of days off for our visit. Hasta la proxima vez! 
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Two Days in Arenal, Costa Rica

8/7/2014

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Anyone traveling to Costa Rica should visit the region surrounding the Arenal Volcano.  This perfectly symmetrical volcano is encircled by jungle, rivers, lakes and a wide variety of flora and fauna.   Until 2010, Arenal was Costa Rica's most active volcano, regularly spewing lava while villagers and tourists watched from a safe distance. Although it has entered a resting phase, it is still a tremendous natural attraction worth visiting.  Although it's often partially hidden by clouds, the clouds clear occasionally offering glimpses of the mighty volcano and resulting in dramatic views like this:  
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The first, and only other time, we have visited Arenal  was 10 years ago with our college friends, Ben and Agnes.  Here are a couple throwback pictures from our March 2004 trip that were taken with a disposable camera!  Remember those?
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Arenal was one highlight of our trip 10 years ago and we remember wishing we had spent more time there.   Since we were returning to Costa Rica for my cousin's wedding, we squeezed in a  quick visit before heading back to San Jose for the festivities. We drove directly from San Jose International Airport and spent two days and three nights in Arenal. 

Getting There

If not visiting with a tour group, we highly recommend driving here.  You need to drive everywhere, and while you can get around in a taxi, you have a lot more flexibility with a car. It's a 3 hour drive from the airport, mostly along winding country and mountain roads.  Directions are a bit tricky since there aren't many road signs but we used a combo of Google Maps and these directions and found our way without any issues.

Where to Stay

There is an abundance of hotels in the Arenal area - from low cost hostels situated in La Fortuna (the main town) to upscale resorts.  When we visited 10 years ago, we stayed in a cabin at the Hotel Lavas Tacotal and loved it. One of my fondest memories was sitting outside our cabin at night, sipping Imperial beer and watching the lava spew from the volcano.  Since the volcano entered a resting phase in 2010,  there are no longer nightly lava shows.  We considered returning to the Hotel Tacotal this time, but after reading reviews online we opted to try something different. People said that since the hotel changed ownership, the service has gone way downhill. 

Since we booked our ticket a bit last minute, a lot of highly ranked hotels were booked.  However, the Lost Iguana was highly ranked, in our price range and had a few rooms left. This place received great reviews online but since it is 17km outside of La Fortuna, many people opted for closer accommodations.  Driving doesn't bother us and we liked the idea of staying somewhere a little more secluded, so we booked a room.   Overall, we had a good experience. When we arrived on Wednesday night, the electricity in the rooms was out due to a wind storm that had just hit La Fortuna.   The hotel provided us with flashlights, candles in the room and a free drink at dinner.  Two hours later, the electricity was up and running!  There are a few things to note about this hotel:

- There is no wi-fi in the rooms, but the wi-fi in the common area works great.
- The restaurant is pretty good! They serve a delicious breakfast, included in the room rate. 
- The hotel will soon be converting to condos so each room will have a small kitchen. You'll still be able to rent a room, but each room might look a little different from the others. 

Here are some pictures from the Lost Iguana:

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The rooms, restaurant and pool are located in separate buildings scattered up the jungle-covered hillside.  We often spotted monkeys, birds and other creatures on the property.
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Pictured above: Our room from the balcony. Pictured below: The volcano & jungle view from our balcony! 
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The pool by the bar was heated to just the right temperature for a cloudy rainy day. There is  another unheated pool for those who need to cool off. 
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Animals roam the property. My favorites were the monkeys and this massive snail that was almost the size of my hand.
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What To Do

The Arenal region is perfect for nature lovers and outdoor adventure junkies.  There are so many ways to fill your days - whitewater rafting, nature walks, canyoning, kayaking, hiking and volcanic hot springs to name a few.  We did a lot in two days, but also had a good amount of time to relax.  

Arrival: We arrived on Wednesday night  and were so tired that all we could do was eat dinner at the hotel and go to bed.

Day 1:  Whitewater Rafting with Desafio Adventures.  You can read my review here.  It was a blast!

Night 1:  Dinner & night pass to the Tabacon Hot Springs.  Since we were in close proximity to the volcano, there are many natural hot springs in the area.  Ten years ago, we tried Baldi Hot Springs which is still around today (and seemingly packed with tourists).  Tabacon is supposed to be the premier hot spring resort in the area so we decided to buy an evening pass which included a buffet dinner.  

There are a lot of pools at Tabacon and the landscaping is beautiful.  We arrived at 6pm and had a 7pm dinner seating so we tried a few pools before dinner. At 6pm the place was PACKED - both the pools and dining room.  We changed for dinner at 7pm (which was just OK) and then went back to the pools at 8pm and it was an entirely different experience.  All the kids were gone and, at times, we felt like we had the place to ourselves. My recommendation is  to dine elsewhere and then arrive at Tabacon around 7:30pm and buy the night pass that doesn't include food.  The hot springs are a perfect  follow-up to a day of rafting.  My muscles thanked me in the morning. 

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Day 2:  After a leisurely breakfast, we visited La Fortuna waterfall.   It takes about 20 mintues to hike down to the waterfall and there is a small swimming area at the base of the falls. 
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After our swim, we drove to Arenal Volcano National Park and hiked along the lava trails to a clearing with a nice view of the lake. Unfortunately, we couldn't see the top of the volcano due to clouds.
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Pictured Above: Chris' reaction to the "High Volcanic Risk" sign.  Pictured Below:  A second warning!
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We walked through the "Cana Brava" - tall reeds - for about a mile. 
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Then we entered the forest, climbed some volcanic rocks and made it to the top where we had a decent view of the lake, despite the cloudy day. 
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The volcano view, on the other hand, left a lot to be desired:(  Oh well! 
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At this point, Chris's ankle was pretty swollen due to a bee sting (we think), and he had a hard time (literally) trying to find a place to sit.  So we bid adieu to the volcano behind the clouds and went back to our hotel. 
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Night 2:  Upon arriving at the hotel, we headed straight for happy hour at the pool, relaxed a bit and then went to Rana Roja for a delicious dinner of ceviche and typical Costa Rican dishes like Chifrijo and rice, beans and plantains. YUM! 
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That sums up our quick jungle adventure in Costa Rica.  Hopefully, we'll have a little more time to explore during our next visit because there is so much to do here!
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White Water Rafting Costa Rica's Sarapiqui River

7/31/2014

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White water rafting has always been on my bucket list and I figured I'd try it at some point during our trip around the world.  However, I never checked it off the old list on our big trip, despite being in destinations with large raging rivers like South Africa and Peru.  We were recently in the Arenal region of Costa Rica, and it being the rainy season, the rivers were roaring.  What better time to try rafting?!?!

We chose to go with Desafio Adventure's class 3/4 rapids based on user reviews and they did not disappoint! We boarded a bus with a group of giggly teenagers on a group trip and a four 20-something passengers, which made us us the bus elders. The rain was pouring over La Fortuna, however we drove two hours to the Sarapiqui River, which was a little less wet. It didn't matter though, we were about to get thoroughly soaked! 

At the river, we met up with a another tour bus and the crew started inflating the rafts. We threw on our gear (helmets & life vests), grabbed an oar, divided into groups and went through a safety briefing and quick tutorial with our guide, Jorge.  Thankfully, Chris and I were on the boat with the four 20-somethings - making us a group of six, plus our guide. Later we learned that, had we been on a raft with the lanky teenagers, we would have been rescuing them from the water the entire time! They regularly fell out of the boats because they collectively weighed about a hundred pounds. 

Here is a picture of our tour bus, shortly after we arrived at the river:
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[Above] Rafts are inflated, ready to go. [Below] Our raft group! 
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First Thrill: Rafting

Little did we know that there would be several thrills on this trip. The first we expected - the rafting itself. Our guide, Jorge, took us through the first rapids beautifully and in no time we were all laughing, screaming and loving the thrill! We got pretty wet at first, but just in case we weren't fully drenched, Jorge poured a helmet full of water on each of us. 
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Then we encountered bigger rapids, which initially elicited this kind of response (that's me screaming in the back):
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We quickly got over the fear and powered through, paddling per Jorge's instructions. Look how hard Chris is working in the picture below:
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At the end of each rapid, we would raise our oars and celebrate our survival by shouting "PURA VIDA", the Costa Rican mantra meaning pure life. 
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Second Thrill: Cliff Jumping

At the mid-point of our trip down the river, we stopped to have some fruit and relax.  Chris spotted some people across the river jumping off a cliff into the water.  The funny thing about Chris is that he has a fear of heights (which is ironic since he is 6'5"); he won't bungee jump and it took a ton of convincing to get him to try a canyon swing.  But cliff jumping? He LOVES it.  I joined Chris in his insanity, and swam across the river, against the rapids and over to the path that led to the cliff. First Chris jumped. That blue blur in the left picture below is Chris mid-jump and the person in pink above is me.  I blew up the picture of me so you can see my terrified expression watching my favorite person jump off a 20 foot cliff into rapids.  
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After ensuring Chris resurfaced, it was my turn. However, I was hesitant and little scared.  Then a 10 year old kid told me nonchalantly "It's really no big deal, I've done it twice already". I succumbed to the tween's peer pressure, and I ran, jumped, flailed, screamed, hit the water, swam as hard as I could to land and then...laughed. It was scary at first but most of it was insanely fun! 
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After our jump, the sun came out and we relaxed, eating especially sweet pineapple and watermelon while taking in this view:
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Post cliff jumping:
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Third Thrill: Awkwardly Riding in Front

If you haven't noticed from the pictures already, class 3/4 rapids are really fun. I think anything less would be a little boring. After cruising through some decent drops and snaking around rather large rocks, I felt pretty comfortable at the half way point. Jorge decided to change that sentiment when he suggested that I ride on the front of the raft, holding the rope "like a horse". I thought it was a joke, but he was serious. "It will be fun" he said.  So I made my way to the front of the raft, expecting him to withdraw his offer before I sat down. He didn't and so I took my position, figuring we wouldn't go through any major rapids while my legs dangled over the front of the boat. 
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Boy was I wrong. We DOVE into a rapid. 
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Luckily for everyone else, I broke the wave.  In the picture below, that black and orange thing in front is my shoe. The rest of me was on the floor of the raft, in the laps of total strangers. WICKED AWKWARD! 
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I attempted to pull myself back up:
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I REALLY tried to pull myself out of this terribly awkward situation! Notice Chris laughing at me in the back.  
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Eventually I gave up, accepted my plight and enjoyed the view from up front.  This was when Jorge and Chris yanked me by the vest into my back seat position. Out of awkwardness; back to paddling. 
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After we finished the course, we drove about five minutes to a restaurant where we changed and had a tasty lunch. Then we slept on the two hour ride back to La Fortuna. We had a blast and would definitely do it again! If you are a reasonably good swimmer visiting Arenal, try Desafio's class 3/4 rapids and get ready to experience multiple thrills and, of course, pura vida! 
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Globally Inspired Home

4/23/2014

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This spring, I'm making a few changes to my home and garden and I'd like to incorporate elements inspired by our recent trip around the world. Although I can't plant exotic tropical flowers in Boston, nor do I have the space for nest beds, I can look for a few pieces that remind me of some of my favorite places. So, in no particular order, here are a 15 things from around the world that would be fun to replicate at home. 

1. Bangkok, Thailand: Nest Beds
Nesting has taken on a whole new meaning in Bangkok. The shape of these human sized sanctuaries will make the most boring of outdoor spaces intriguing. Add a light inside and create glowing garden sculptures at night!
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Photo by Eva Barbier from blog post: Chillin' Out In Bangkok

2. Hamburg, Germany: Modern Rococo
I'm typically not a fan of rococo and prefer balancing frills and flourishes with corners and crisp lines. However, I reveled in this little cafe in Hamburg, sipping my chai tea slowly while sinking into a cozy velvet couch.  I have no idea if they intentionally distressed the walls or if they just spruced up a derelict space with vintage couches from Oma and Opa's house. Whatever they did, it worked. 
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Photo by Eva Barbier from blog post: Hamburg, Bremen & Bloemendaal

3. Cappadocia, Turkey: Canvas & Carpet Covered Terraces
While in Turkey, we spent two glorious mornings having breakfast here, overlooking the cave town of Goreme. I've been thinking about using canvas to provide shade on my deck during the hot summer since it's pretty easy to put up and take down. I also love the rug covered table for extra lounging.
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Photo by Eva Barbier. To learn more about Turkey, visit our Turkey Destination Page. 

4. Cambodia: Colored Wooden Blinds
These colorful blinds would add cheer to any space such as a nursery, kitchen or my home office.
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Photo by Eva Barbier from the blog post: Waterworld: The Floating Village of Kompong Phluk, Cambodia

5. Yangshuo, China: Wagon Wheel Benches
Check out these benches at our Inn in Yangshuo. They are made by attaching local wood planks to an axle and wagon wheels. This set-up is a charming alternative to a traditional picnic table. 
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Photo by Eva Barbier from blog post: Days 167-170: Yangshuo, China - Hiking and Biking the Karst Mountains

6. Koh Lanta, Thailand: Bamboo Lounges & Pyramid Pillows
Koh Lanta is one of the places i miss most often because we found total relaxation here. Perhaps it's because bamboo lounges and beds are scattered along the beaches, waiting for a wanderer to plop down for a cold beer and a little shut eye. The colorful pyramid pillows are a nice touch, and help prop up one's head in order to enjoy the sea view.  I don't think bamboo would last in the harsh Boston weather, but if i ever live somewhere milder I plan on creating my own little slice of Lanta. 
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Photo of The Indian bar in Koh Lanta by Eva Barbier from Our Guide to Koh Lanta, Thailand

7. Ubud, Bali: Stone & Wood Carvings
Bali is full of insanely talented artisans and artists that have been perfecting their craft for generations. We visited gardens, homes and temples full of intricately carved statues and furniture. Two of my favorite pieces were these Balinese women who seem full of happiness and peace. Generally, this is how I feel after a really good meal. They would look lovely in my garden and remind me of the warmth and hospitality we experienced in Bali. 
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Read more about Bali here: Ubud, Bali - The Barong Dance, Stone Carving & The Awe-Inspiring Contact Lens 

8. Melbourne, Australia: Bold Tile
This tile covered the inside of a bench shelter in Melbourne. It was a pleasant surprise, since the structure was grey on the outside. I thought the pattern would make a nice outdoor table top. 
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Photo by Eva Barbier from blog post: 3 Days In Melbourne

9. Kruger Park,  South Africa: Drapery Over Doors
The decor at safari camps is fantastic, but much of what you'd expect from the African bush - typical wood furniture, local animal fur rugs, and lots of neutrals.  One thing I really liked was the use of drapery, particularly over doors or entryways.  I'm not sure if this has a practical use in the summer (ie keeping bugs out of rooms) but they really made our accommodation, a tent, very homey. 
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Photo by Eva Barbier in blog post: Tanda Tula Safari Camp

10. Paris, France: Black & White Tile
Black and white tile was everywhere in Paris so it always reminds me of my favorite city.  I don't know if it's the the tile that contributes to the glamour of Paris or if it's Paris that makes the tile so chic.  Let's just say it's a symbiotic relationship. If my bathroom wasn't so tiny, I'd tile it like the picture below. 
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Photo by Eva Barbier from blog post: Our Favorite Room in Paris: Six Cent Deux 

11. Arrowtown, New Zealand: Recycled Container Garden
This is a neat idea for people who have a lot of outdoor space. Arrowtown is an old gold mining town in New Zealand. There was a lot of abandoned equipment from the mining days so local artists used them in their artwork and homes. Here is an old pipe transformed into a container garden. 
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Photo by Eva Barbier. To learn more about New Zealand visit our New Zealand Destination Page. 

12. Winelands, South Africa: Chrome+Stone+Wood
The wineries in Franschhoek, South Africa are stunning both inside and out.  I particularly enjoyed the modern decor of the tasting room at the Gran Provence. The chrome bar and fixtures gave it a sleek modern look which was nicely offset by the rest of the room, comprised of natural elements from the region - stone, clay and wood. While it's void of color inside, the view was bursting with color outside the glass doors. 
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Photo of the Gran Provence tasting room by Eva Barbier as featured in The Winelands Awards.

13. Seminyak, Bali: Colorful Shutters
These pretty shutters, spotted in Bali, would liven up a pool house or backyard shed. 
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Photo by Eva Barbier in blog post: Bali, Indonesia - Laid Back Seminyak

14. Chiang Mai, Thailand: Copper Light Fixtures
Giant copper lights were suspended from tall tree trunks in our hotel lobby in Chiang Mai.  They were especially enchanting when twinkling at night. Perhaps they could be used on a much smaller scale in an entryway, over a dining room table or kitchen island. 
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Photo of VC@Suanpaak lobby by Eva Barbier from Chiang Mai, Thailand - Hits & Misses

15. Caye Caulker, Belize: Weathered Wooden Signs
The tiny Caribbean island is comprised of small wooden structures that have been weathered by the salt and sand in the air.  Painted wooden signs were strewn about the island featuring island mantras (Go Slow) and store names. I think these would look great hanging in a bohemian urban garden. 
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Photo by Eva Barbier from Caye Caulker - You Better Belize It.

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pura vida

4/11/2013

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Last year, it seemed like everyone in Boston vacationed in Puerto Rico.  This year,  Costa Rica is the popular choice.  A few friends have already visited and all of them returned home with a huge smile on their face. It's hard not to love this country.  

Although I visited almost 10 years ago, it remains one of my favorite vacations of all time. There aren't many places where can you watch a volcano erupt outside your cabin, observe  monkeys & SLOTHS on your walk to pristine beaches, sip Imperial with friendly Ticos, zipline through the jungle treetops, stumble upon a jungle rave after dining in a historical airplane, hike a cloud forest and (in my case) finally meet amazing family members in person. Costa Rica is truly special.   

The Ticos have a saying - Pura Vida - which literally means pure life but really means full of life or this is living!.  People often use it when greeting each other or saying goodbye (kind of like the way the British say cheers). These two words perfectly sum up Costa Rica and it's easy to adopt this philosophy when you visit.   Check out Beyond Voyage's Costa Rica review for more information. Pura Vida! 
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view of Arenal Volcano from the Hotel Tacotal, photo by Eva Barbier
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    Eva has been traveling for 15+ years, including an 8 month journey around the world.  

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