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One week in the Hood Canal

10/15/2015

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I’m very excited to introduce this week’s guest blogger, Elizabeth! She recently traveled to a destination that is VERY high on my bucket list - the Olympic Peninsula. Elizabeth and her son spent two weeks exploring the Hood Canal and Seattle, and kindly shared her itinerary which I’m posting in two installments. I cannot wait to replicate this trip! ​ - Eva
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In August, I took my 8 year old son on a two week vacation to Seattle and the Hood Canal in Washington state. Though I had been to Seattle a couple of times before, I decided to add a stay on the Hood Canal to this trip.

About the Hood Canal

The Hood Canal is not a canal at all but rather, one of only two natural fjords in the lower 48
states. The Canal was carved by glaciers and like all fjords has very steep sides and dramatic tidal variations of up to 14 feet.  Despite the steep sides many people have built vacation homes on both sides of the lower Hood Canal by supporting the houses on concrete bulkheads that are lapped by water at high tide.  

Our Home Rental

We found an amazing house in Tuhuya on Home Away and rented it for the first week of our vacation.  Folks coming from the East who are used to astronomically priced vacation rentals in places like Cape Cod and the Outer Banks will be pleasantly surprised by the reasonable rates for vacation rentals in places like Tahuya and Union. They may also be surprised, as I was, to learn that most rentals require a 3 night and not a full week stay. This is because many of them cater to folks from Seattle who are coming for long weekends. If you’ve never spent any time on the Hood Canal or the Olympic Peninsula I recommend a minimum of 4 nights. There is so much to see I could have easily filled two weeks!   ​
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Stunning sunset views from the lake house!
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Our house at low tide.

Seven Day Itinerary

Day 1: Arrival

We arrived in Seattle at 11am via non-stop Alaska Airlines flight from DC (great airline). We rented a car and drove to our house in Tahuya. The timing worked well because we were driving to some unfamiliar rural places all in daylight.

​​Day 2: Scenic Drive & Alderbrook Resort

On our first day we set out to explore Union, directly across the Canal from Tahuya. By boat the trip is about 10 minutes, by car about 50. The Hood Canal is basically shaped like a backwards “J”.  In order to drive to Union we had to drive around the southern end, through Belfair, and back along the southern shore line. Nearly all of the road along the Western side of the canal has incredible views of the Canal so just driving is spectacular.  

Quite by accident, we happened upon the Alderbrook resort. The resort has been remodeled in the past few years and is incredible. Rates are reasonable and vary with the seasons. They have a large piece of property with many rooms with canal views. They also have nearly 20 cabins available to rent if you need additional space. They are very family friendly, dog friendly, and gay friendly. We weren’t even staying there and were treated exceptionally well each of the times we went over.  They have a lot to offer and try to get locals to use their facilities too. The resort amenities include boats and paddleboards, a beach and swimming pool, a large golf course, and a fantastic restaurant.

Upon discovering the Alderbrook, we had lunch on their beautiful deck overlooking the canal. We also reserved a spot on their boat for a trip on Wednesday. That night, we cooked dinner at our house  (king salmon and Manila clams from the canal!).  
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Views from the Alderbrook (photo courtesy of hotel website)

Day 3: Port Townsend & Another Scenic Drive

We drove back around the Canal and through Union and continued north toward Port Townsend, a very pretty town on the Northeastern tip of the Olympic Peninsula.  We had been told that it was a 1 hour drive from Union to Port Townsend. Ha! The trip from Union to Port Townsend takes a minimum of two hours meaning our trip from the house was really three hours. With nowhere in particular that we had to be this was not a big problem, but I would have left the house much earlier had I known how long it would all take. Along the way we stopped at the Olympic National Forest Ranger station in Quilcene to get some advice on where to stop.  ​

Once in Port Townsend we drove around a bit and found Doc’s Marina Grill. They had a beautiful sunny deck where we could watch the ferries going to Whidbey and the San Juan Islands. The water and mountains looked remarkably like Alaska…no surprise considering you are very close to the beginning of the Inside Passage here.

We consulted a map and determined that we could take a different route home and cut an hour off our trip. This drive includes a trip across the only bridge that goes over the Hood Canal. This is a drawbridge so it is possible to get stopped here but the views are worth the wait if you get stuck.
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​Day 4: Hood Canal Boat Cruise & Hama Hama Oyster Company

We left the house around 9:45 and made it to the Alderbrook just in time to catch breakfast in the main dining room. It was a bit of a battle to determine if the Huckleberry waffle or the Northwest Omelette with Dungeness crab and tiny Oregon shrimp was better. Both were outstanding. On our way out of the restaurant we checked out their dinner menu and made reservations to return on Friday evening.  

We spent some time hanging out on the decks at the Alderbrook and then joined about 50 people on the resort’s large boat at 2pm. The boat takes a 90 minute tour of the Hood Canal. Not only do you get amazing views that aren’t possible from land, the trip is narrated by a local woman who has spent her whole life on the canal. She is full of information and can answer all kinds of questions. The resort keeps the price low enough that locals regularly take the trip too. We had a bunch of locals on our trip who shared additional information about the area.
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The boat at the Alderbrook (photo courtesy of hotel website)
After our boat trip at the Alderbrook we drove to the Hama Hama Oyster Company. The farm has a market where you can buy seafood and an Oyster Tasting Saloon where you sit by the water and eat raw and roasted oysters and drink wine and Finnriver Cider!  What could be better?
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Hama Hama Oysters (photo courtesy of company website)
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Day 5: Swimming, Kayaking and Amy’s On the Bay

After 4 days of running around and lots of driving we were ready for a day at the house.  We used the morning and early afternoon to enjoy the scenery, go swimming, and go for a paddle in the kayaks that were at our rental house. Later in the afternoon we took a short trip to Port Orchard.  The town doesn’t have a lot to offer unless you are an antiques hunter.  The gem of Port Orchard is Amy’s On the Bay which has great moderately priced seafood and a deck with nice views of Bremerton and the Naval Shipyard.
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Day 6: Olympic National Park

We left the house in the morning and drove to the Staircase Entrance of Olympic National Park. The big surprise was passing by Lake Cushman.  This is a 10 mile long man-made lake that was created when a dam was installed in order to provide power for the city of Tacoma.  Many people have built homes on the lake and it is incredibly beautiful.  
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Lake Cushman
Eventually we made our way through the National Forest which skirts the edge of the park and found the entrance to the national park. The Staircase Entrance is only open seasonally and has a wonderful camping area. Camping is on a first come first served basis and sites fill quickly. They start filling sites at 11am and by noon on summer Fridays there are usually no camp sites left. We chose to do a short hike through the forest of Douglas Firs. I could have stayed all day! We finished our day with a quick change into nicer clothes and an early dinner back at the Alderbrook Resort.  
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Douglas Firs at Olympic National Park

Day 7: Finnriver Cidery & Central Market

We drove back up to the northeastern part of the Olympic Peninsula and made a visit to the Finnriver Cidery. Here you can taste a variety of hard ciders including the Artisan Sparkling Cider which resembles a fine Champagne! There are often events going on at the cidery. We chose to go on Saturday because they were hosting Hama Hama oyster farm and we were able to enjoy oysters and cider at the beautiful farm.  

In the afternoon we made a stop at Central Market in Poulsbo. Central Market is an incredible grocery store based in Poulsbo. We were told it was like Whole Foods. And Mt. Everest is just a little hill….  Central Market would probably have my entire paycheck if I lived nearby.  
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We finished the evening with a stop in Bainbridge Island for dinner.  
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Great find at the market: Tillamook is an Oregon cheese maker that also makes yogurt and ice cream. Marionberry is a is a hybrid blackberry unique to the PNW. It's amazing!  Try anything that is Marionberry or Huckleberry!

The next day we were off on our next adventure. Stay tuned for my next blog post about things to do in Seattle!
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Baby's First Trip to Puerto Rico

9/29/2015

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We took B on his first flight a few weeks ago - to visit our family in Puerto Rico!  While we were extremely excited to introduce B to his family, the trip was also bittersweet because it was our first time there since the passing of my grandfather two months earlier. Needless to say, his absence was incredibly difficult, but the baby smiled and laughed non-stop, filling all of our hearts with joy. It was very much needed and B reveled in all the attention and love!
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The center of attention
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B loves his bisabuela!​

Beach Babe

Our travel style has changed quite a bit with a three month old. Long gone are the jungle hikes, surf lessons and late nights out in Old San Juan. However, one thing remains the same - beach time! We happily spent many afternoons enjoying the island's best features - white sand and turquoise water. In September, the water in San Juan is still calm, clear and very warm. The only nuisance is that it's the beginning of jellyfish season (Sept-Nov), which we somehow never knew before. AFTER we dipped B's toes in the sea, Chris went for a swim and came back with his first jellyfish sting. It was minor and disappeared within an hour but we were very glad the jelly missed the little guy! 

Here are some shots from Isla Verde and Luquillo beaches:
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Lovely day at Luquillo beach
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Like father, like son
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Good Eats & Old San Juan

One day we ventured out to central Puerto Rico where we finally ate roast pig at a traditional lechonera (read more about that excursion here). And of course, on another day, we had to stroll through Old San Juan and grab a mallorca and cafe con leche at Cafe Mallorca (YUM!). We also stopped by our wedding venue - Casa de Espana - for a quick trip down memory lane. 
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Cafe Mallorca with Nani
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The Casa de Espana courtyard: We were married here just over seven years ago.
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Dancing at the Mall

It would't be a proper visit with my grandmother without a trip to the mall. Although she is in her mid-80's she still exercises regularly (she was a physical education teacher after all). She takes zumba classes at the local mall and one day I joined in the fun. 
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We've got our uniforms on and are ready for Zumba at the mall! I had to borrow pants from Nani. No shorts allowed at this shin-dig. These are proper ladies - all class. 
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At least a hundred ladies dancing zumba at the mall. The teacher was super engaging and his students adored him! 
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Taking a break at the brand new  Mall of San Juan. 

Enjoying Home

We spent the rest of our time hanging out around the house, watching the beautiful sunsets and enjoying each other's company.
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My favorite backyard view:)
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A quick sun shower in the backyard. The island has been suffering from severe drought so the rain was welcome!
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The Flamboyant tree boasts my favorite colors. 
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Check out the color of these leaves outside my grandmother's bathroom window. 
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The sunsets were fabulous as usual. Until next time Puerto Rico!
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Flying With An Infant: What to Pack

9/17/2015

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We took B on his first flight over Labor Day weekend. He had just turned three months old and our pediatrician gave us the OK to fly. Woohoo! B's first flight was from Boston to Puerto Rico - almost four hours of airtime. 
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Checking in to B's first flight! 

Since we stayed at my grandmother's house, she thankfully borrowed or bought a few things for the baby, namely:
  • crib & sheet
  • baby bathtub, towel & baby soap
  • diapers & wipes

This was huge because...

Babies Require a Lot of Stuff

Like a TON. During B's first three months we had taken day trips and a couple of overnight trips - mainly to his grandparents' homes, both of which are close by in New England. Each time we packed for an overnighter, we were shocked that we FILLED the trunk of our car. It seemed preposterous, being that we traveled around the world for almost a year with just a backpack. However, after each trip with the little guy, we evaluated our packing and realized that we used everything. It's like the smaller the person, the more stuff they need! Very counter intuitive. 
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Traveling for 8 months with no baby: A backpack
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Traveling for 1 week with baby: 6 bags, car seat, stroller
I wanted to travel as light as possible, so I researched what I really needed to bring and found a wide range of opinions and suggestions. Here is a list of what we brought for the baby:

Carry-On 

  • Car Seat
  • Stroller Frame (gate checked)
  • Car Seat Base (gate checked in bag)
  • Boppy Pillow
  • Three bottles, pre-filled with formula powder
  • Bottle of water
  • Changing station (with extra diapers & wipes)
  • Change of clothes for the three of us
  • Mechanical pump & accessories 
  • Hand pump
  • Nursing cover (I exclusively pump but this is useful if I need to pump in public)
  • Three pacifiers
  • Two blankets
  • Two toys
  • Several burp cloths & bigs
  • Boba wrap (didn't use)

Checked Bags

  • Sleep Sack & Magic Merlin Sleep Suit
  • Sleep Sheep
  • Sound Monitor
  • Onesies, burp cloths & bibs
  • Swim trunks, rash guard & hat
  • Nose bulb & nail clippers
  • Teething ring
  • Sensitive Skin SPF 30
  • Baby medicine (didn't use)
  • Medela Storage Bags (didn't use)

Here is more information on the usefulness of each item:

Carry-On: We flew  Jet Blue and they allow passengers with a baby to carry on an extra diaper bag and to gate check the stroller and car seat. Check with your airline as rules vary. 

Car Seat, Frame & Base - VERY USEFUL - for a few reasons:
  • Safety: We didn't buy B a seat on the plane but ended up getting an empty row of three on the way there. This meant we could carry the carseat on board and strap it onto the third seat.  Safety wise, this made a big difference. When I was holding him, I worried there would be sudden turbulence and he would fly out of my arms. Being a nervous flyer, I wasn't able to relax unless he was belted into his seat. Note: when bringing a car seat on board a plane it must be FAA approved (label should say so) and it must go in the window seat.  If you don't have a window seat, they will make you gate check the car seat. 

  • Carrying Cart: When we were running around the airport I could put the boppy (essentially a giant neck pillow that goes around your waist for feeding the baby) in the stroller basket and hang his diaper bag from the hook on the handle. It was very easy to move around. Had I put him in the baby carrier, I would have been extremely uncomfortable. 

  • Car Rental: It was worth bringing the car seat base since we rented a car. You can gate check the base with the stroller frame so you worry less about loss or damage. I'd recommend getting a bag for the base since the baggage handlers can be rough. You may also have to gate check the seat itself, and you'll definitely want a bag for that. Also, you could put the boppy in the bag until you are ready to board. 
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B, strapped into his window seat and ready for take off!
  • Boppy - VERY USEFUL - we used this on the plane when we held B and all the time in the house in Puerto Rico. Remember to wash it after your flight (or bring an extra cover). 
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The boppy came in handy for feedings and naps on the plane. Not necessary but very nice to have. 
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The blue pillow above is a Boppy. And yes, B looks like the Monopoly man before he went gray. 
  • Feeding supplies required a lot of space in my backpack. Let's break it down:  Three Dr. Brown's large bottles pre-filled with formula powder and a bottle of water. B mainly drinks expressed breast milk, but I had to supplement with formula a few weeks ago due to an illness I had. He did just fine with formula and it's much easier to travel with formula powder than pre-packed breast milk, which needs to be refrigerated and somehow always spills in my bag. I also brought Medela sterilization bags, mechanical breast pump, hand held pump, and anursing cover on board.  I used everything in flight except the mechanical pump & sterilization bags. 

  • Pacifiers - VERY USEFUL - B uses a paci to fall asleep so these were important.

  • Two blankets - USEFUL - One to keep him warm and another to cover his car seat if he was sleeping.

  • Three bibs and a handful of burp cloths - VERY USEFUL - This kid drools everywhere.

  • Change of clothes for the three of us - DID NOT USE - but I'm glad we had them in case of a major blowout. No one wants to spend four hours in a poop stained shirt. 

  • Changing kit with extra diapers and wipes (just in case there were delays) - NECESSARY

  • Two of his favorite toys (plastic rings and a giraffe) - NICE TO HAVE - Definitely not necessary at this age but the rings entertained him for a little while.

  • Boba Wrap - NOT USEFUL - We didn't use it once during the whole trip. 

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On the way home, we found a secret lounge at SJU in terminal C.  We hung out in these snazzy chairs while waiting for our flight to board. 

Checked Luggage: We only checked two carry-on sized rolly bags. It mostly contained our clothes and the following for B:

  • Sleep Sack & Magic Merlin Sleep Suit - VERY USEFUL - B was transitioning from his Rock N Play to a crib so we were experimenting with different sleep suits since he is now too big for a swaddle (he can turn over). We found that Magic Merlin worked best, as long as the A/C was on and he was in the crib. He typically sleeps from 7:30ish pm to 6-7am. The sleep sack was good for the hotter temps during nap time. On the plane we just brought two light blankets and dressed him in a onesie, soft pants and socks. 

  • Sleep Sheep - NICE TO HAVE - He loves falling asleep to the heartbeat setting. We realized that we could have taken just the noisemaker out of the sheep to save space. 

  • Sound Monitor - NECESSARY - B sleeps in his own room so this is a must.

  • Medela storage bags - DID NOT USE -I pretty much produced on pace with B's demand for milk so I stored expressed milk in his bottles. 

  • Nose bulb & nail clippers - VERY USEFUL - In hindsight it would have been smart to pack the nose bulb in the carry on in case he got stuffy on the plane. 

  • Baby medicines (pain reliever, vaseline, saline drops) - NICE TO HAVE - luckily we didn't need to use this but it's good to have just in case. Depending on where you are going, you can also buy this stuff at a drug store. 

  • Swim trunks, long sleeved SPF rash guard & hat - VERY USEFUL for the beach

  • Coppertone Sensitive SPF 30 - VERY USEFUL - I guess we aren't supposed to use suntan lotion on the baby until he is six months, but we put a little of this on his arms and feet since the sun is so strong in PR. We mainly kept him in the shade, but it's hard to avoid the sun 100% of the time there so we wanted to protect his sensitive skin. 

  • Bibs, burp cloths and onesies - lots of these because he spits up so much. Sometimes we kept him in just a diaper because it was pretty hot (and he was so cute). 

  • Teething ring - USEFUL - he has a tooth coming in and the cold was refreshing in the 90 degree heat.

I wish I could say that we managed to travel with carry-on only, but it was not realistic with a baby. I think we might be able to do it once he is off breast milk (the pumping equipment takes up a lot of room) but I have to say that it's nice not fretting about finding room for suitcases overhead in addition to all the other stuff we had to carry on. 

B behaved really well on both flights. The first was an afternoon flight where he slept for maybe an hour total and then either ate or played with us the rest of the time. The second was an evening flight and he slept for most of it. Fingers crossed he remains a great traveler on future trips! 
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The best:) 
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Culinary Delights of Puerto Rico: Lechon

9/10/2015

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On Labor Day, we traveled with our family to Guavate, home of the lechon highway. Guavate is a mountain town in central Puerto Rico, whose twisty main road weaves through the jungle amidst a great many "lechoneras". Lechon is the Puerto Rican term for roast whole pig on a spit. It's traditionally cooked up on weekends and served for lunch, or for as long as it happens to last. It is typically accompanied by dance floors/halls with loud music and copious amounts of alcohol. We have been meaning to partake of this local tradition for years, and finally got our chance thanks to Eva's uncle & aunt!

First, a tip - no bread is served at most lechonaras, but nothing goes with roast pig like a loaf of pan sobao, which is the most delightful hunk of bread on the face of the planet. Forget about France and Italy, Puerto Rico holds the bread crown in our book. On our list of to-do's: secure the recipe for this doughy goodness and attempt to recreate the magic back home. You can find pan sobao at most local bakeries around the island.  Normally this bread does not make it to its final destination because Eva devours it in the car on the way. Amazingly, this time she managed to control herself amidst the aroma of four loaves of freshly baked pan sobao wafting throughout the car. 

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Next it was off to Guavate, about a 30 minute drive south of San Juan. Taking the main highway through Caguas, take the Guavate exit and follow the winding road up the mountain through the jungle. You'll soon begin to spot lechon joints dotting both sides of the road. These places get going on Saturday and Sunday around lunch time, which is when you'll want to visit if you are up for a party. As it was Labor Day when we went, many of the lechoneras were closed and the crowds were minmal. However, a choice few remained open. We popped into Lechonera Los Pinos for our porky smorgasbord, a photograph of which is shown below.
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Here's a snapshot of the unfortunate ungulate of the day, or what was left of him when we got there. Unfortunate for him but lucky for us, because he was tasty.
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Waiting in line for some roast pig:
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The next picture shows a sampling of our fare. On the top is a type of yuca root with onions, butter and garlic. Yum. The bottom left plate includes batatas (Puerto Rican yam) and some sausage made fresh from the pig. They also have blood sausage which is more traditional, but we didn't indulge. Finally, on the bottom right is what we came for: two pounds of barbecued lechon, including the crispy skins which might be the best part!
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The lechoneras are super casual and very family friendly. B loved it...
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...but that could have been because of all the attention he was getting from his aunt, uncle, cousin and great-grandma:
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With full bellies, we departed Los Pinos and strolled up the road to El Rancho lechonera, home to what appeared to be the area's largest dance hall and kinkiest of lechon art. The picture below shows the road heading up to El Rancho. We're told that this is typically backed up for miles on a normal weekend day, so be prepared! El Rancho is both on the left and right side of the road, with two large dance halls and, of course, a massive lechon pit.
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Behind the main restaurant is bridge that crosses a small stream and leads to small huts, each with its own table and chairs. 
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In front of El Rancho with Nani:
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These signs of pig waitresses serving pig reminded me of the guinea pig joint in Peru with the guinea pig wearing a chef's hat (as seen in my first Culinary Delights installment). 
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So next time you are in Puerto Rico and in the mood for some tasty barbecue, do like the locals do and take the trip down to Guavate on a Saturday or Sunday for a lechon lunch. And with that I'll leave you with one final piece of lechon art:
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Where to Stay in Bali: The Oberoi, Seminyak

8/31/2015

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Mike & Vickie, Guest Bloggers
We are thrilled to introduce two very special guest bloggers, Mike & Vickie, otherwise known as "Mom and Dad" and more recently, "Grammie & Papa"!  They just got back from a two week trip to one of our favorite destinations - Bali!  For those seeking luxurious getaways - don't miss this review of the Oberoi in Seminyak!!!  ~ Eva & Chris


This was our first trip to Bali, and in fact, our first trip to Asia. We had talked about making the trip to Bali for years to visit our friends Paul and Nyoman, whom you may have read about on Chris and Eva's previous Bali posts, and we finally pulled the trigger this year!  Before meeting up with said friends, we spent a few wonderful nights at the Oberoi Hotel in Seminyak to work off the jet lag and enjoy the beautiful Balinese beaches. Below is our review of the experience.

Impeccable Service

A very notable standout of our trip was the people that we encountered at the Oberoi, Bali. From General Manager, John Halpin, who greeted us upon our arrival and who, amazingly, hails from a small Massachusetts town only two removed from our own, to Ardinata who, at 35 years, is the longest tenured employee at the Oberoi and who attentively served us breakfast each morning, the staff here is beyond description. Each person who works here, from the G.M. to the interns, clearly conveys a sense of caring and concern about each guest whenever and wherever they are encountered. It, most likely, has to do with what, as Ardinata described it, is a sense of pride and a sense of family among the employees; a culture, if you will, that is carried on from one year to the next, making for a wonderful guest experience.
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Since we were celebrating our anniversary, the staff surprised us with a card and arrangement of local treats. 

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Another personal touch by the amazing staff at the Oberoi. 


The Lap of Luxury

Beyond the staff, the Oberoi Bali offers a wonderful property where one can relax and ignore the stress of the real world while enjoying the amenities afforded by, what we consider to be, a 5 star resort.

Amazingly, while enjoying the Oberoi, one would never imagine that immediately outside of its gates (and noticeable security), there is the hustle and bustle of a very busy and congested Seminyak.

We spent our days here alongside of the wonderfully appealing pool where we were promptly greeted by a staff member who efficiently made up our chaise lounges with clean towels and who, moments later returned with a tray containing two bottles of water, two warm towels, sunscreen and water misting spray. There was also a small flag that could be placed upright should we need or desire anything at any time. Truly, the "lap of luxury"! No need to be concerned about leaving the area for hours and returning; lounges were ours for as long as we wanted them.

Each afternoon complimentary sorbets are offered to poolside guests by staff who circulate among the lounges. In addition, at 4 PM, complimentary tea and pastries are offered at the amphitheater adjacent to the pool.

While relaxing on our lounges, we found that there were always staff around which, while never, in any way obtrusive, were there should we want to order a snack or lunch. With over 300 staff and only 74 guest rooms, the staff to guest ratio certainly lends itself to efficient attentiveness.

Here are a couple of shots from our daily breakfast table:
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Here is video footage of the relaxing pool area, complete with Bali umbrellas and a perfect breeze off the ocean:

Preserving the Natural Beauty of Bali

Beaches in Bali are almost all public. However, we found that the beach accessed right outside of the Oberoi property was filled with silky smooth white sand and beautiful Indian Ocean water. Unlike the beaches outside of properties to either side of the Oberoi, there were no umbrellas or chairs/chaises on the Oberoi beach; nothing to detract from the natural beauty that nature has provided.
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The resort grounds were beautifully decorated with traditional Balinese artwork, architecture and decor. 

Oberoi's Culinary Delights

The food at the Oberoi was all terrific. The Nasi Goreng, Bakmi Goreng, Croque Monsieur, Croque Madame, Smoked Tasmanian Salmon and delightful Alaskan King Crab Salad Sandwich were all, epicurean delights that, while certainly of ample quantity, inevitably left one wanting more!

The Oberoi offers two al fresco dining options; a fine dining restaurant requiring reservations and appropriate attire (no shorts or flip flops if you please) and a bar area offering an abundant assortment of appetizers and lighter dishes.

Food prices at the Oberoi, while certainly higher than what can be found outside of its gates in Seminyak, were, in our opinion, reasonable given the locale.
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Fresh seafood skewers for breakfast!
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Alaskan king crab sandwich for lunch.
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The grounds offer a beautiful ambiance for a romantic dinner.

Not Rooms...Private Retreats!

The rooms at the Oberoi are wonderful and capture the natural beauty of the island and its culture; adorned with art from the nearby town of Ubud, known for its artists, who work in a variety of mediums. Ours was a lanai room with a bubbling fountain and fish pool outside of our door. In addition to our large and well appointed bedroom, the accommodation included a large bathroom with a roman tub and stall shower that featured a glass wall and door opening into a private atrium. Each villa comes equipped with a beach bag, slippers and robe. There is also a safe for guest valuables. Laundry services are available and are very reasonable.
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Our lanai villa with a beautiful piece of artwork from Ubud above the bed. 
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The stunning bathroom with Roman tub and private atrium.
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Outside of our room was a private patio, bubbling fountain and fish pool. The sound of the fountain was very soothing at night!

Cultural Entertainment & Education

Most evenings at the Oberoi seem to offer some sort of free entertainment or a reasonably priced unique dining experience. As an example, on one of nights there, there was a gourmet buffet served around the amphitheater where the Legong Dance (story) was performed by a renowned group that was brought in from the outside. Both the performance and the food were outstanding.
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A gamelan demonstration was one of many cultural performances showcased at the Oberoi.
If you are looking a truly wonderful, relaxing experience where you need not leave the resort, this may be the place for you.
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Culinary Delights: Food to Sample in New Zealand

8/20/2015

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After two weeks of suffering from a wicked intestinal infection, I'm on the mend and suddenly very HUNGRY. Doc says I should stick to the BRAT (banana, rice, applesauce, toast) diet for another week but all I want is a cheeseburger and cup of coffee  (coffee becomes infinitely more enjoyable when you have an infant). I've been talking Chris' ear off about food lately, fantasizing about sizzling steaks, that perfect honeycrisp apple I had last fall, the Italian deli in Davis Square that makes a divine prosciutto mozzarella sandwich, that coconut macaroon I had in southern Spain back in 2000, and...well I can go on and on. 

Since I'm still rounding up our past New Zealand experience on the blog, I've been dreaming about  some of our favorite food from the trip.  Here are my top four:
1. The Lamb at The Fat Duck
The Fat Duck was hands down our favorite dining experience in NZ.  Located in the tiny town of Te Anau, the home base for seeing Milford Sound, this casual restaurant serves beautify presented, tasty food with a smile. We discovered the restaurant because the daughter of our B&B owner worked there at the time.  New Zealand is known for its lamb, and we sampled lots, but the grilled lamb dish we shared here was spectacular. The portions were a good size and the prices were reasonable. Sadly, I didn't take any pictures at The Fat Duck so here is one from their Facebook page:
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2. Green Mussels at The Occidental Belgium Beer Cafe
As seafood lovers, we had to try New Zealand's famous giant green-lipped mussels.  We sampled them at a pub in Auckland called The Occidental Belgium Beer Cafe.  You can get them steamed with a variety of sauces or grilled with a variety of toppings. We ordered a mix but my favorite was the basic steamed mussels with celery, onion and garlic. They paired nicely with a fresh pint of beer or a local sauvignon blanc. 
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Photo credit: The Occidental Belgium Beer Cafe Website (our pictures were too dark & grainy)
3. Fergburger
I know that many a traveler who has been to Queenstown will cry out "Fergburger? Really? That is so touristy!" Yup, it is and it deserves to be. These burgers rock! Ferg serves inventive hamburgers as well as a variety of non red meat sandwich options.  After a day of canyon swinging, hiking, mounting luging, bungee jumping and heart-racing boat rides - a hearty burger really hits the spot. 
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Chris and his Fergburger
4. The (Best) Flat White
Among all of our travels, we found that the best coffee is from either New Zealand or South Africa. None of this aromatic, fruity, flowery BS that they tout in San Francisco.  This coffee is strong and dark - just the way we like it.  Flat whites, which were invented in Australia or New Zealand are like lattes, except smaller with a higher ratio of coffee.  They have only recently started to become popular int he US.  We each probably had two flat whites a day and our favorite was located in this tiny town called Kawakawa.  We think the cafe is called the Kawakawa Bakehouse. It's located next the self proclaimed "world's beast public bathroom".  I'm not kidding. It's  thing - check it out here. 
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Hundertwasser's Public Restroom is considered to be the most beautiful public restroom in the world.  Not sure it's worth stopping for the bathroom, but it's definitely worth stopping for the flat white next door! 
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Where to Stay in New Zealand's Wine Country: Walnut Block Cottages

8/6/2015

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If you like tranquil, picturesque, off-the-beaten-track accomodations, then look no further than the Walnut Block cottages in New Zealand's wine region.  

This was easily our favorite accommodation during our two week trip to New Zealand.  Walnut Block is a boutique organic winery owned by two brothers in Blenheim, New Zealand.   Similar to the agroturismos of Italy, Walnut Block offers accomodations located on a working farm. 

There are only two cottages for rent on this vineyard so it's very private and quiet.  Situated among the Savignon grapes, the cottages are modern, smartly decorated and have a stunning sunset view of the vineyard and surrounding mountains. The kitchen is stocked with various Walnut Block wines, which we of course sampled (our favorite was the Pinot Noir). Each cottage has a deck and outdoor grill and one of our favorite meals was when we barbecued spoils from the local market while sipping a glass of vino and watching the glorious sun set over the valley.   

We highly recommend staying here if you can snag one of the two cottages! Here are some photos of this beautiful hidden gem:
Walnut Block Cottages New Zealand
Our cottage at Walnut Block Winery
Walnut Block Cottages New Zealand
We enjoyed home cooked meals on the deck overlooking the grapevines. 
Walnut Block Cottages New Zealand
The Walnut Block vineyard was incredibly beautiful.
Walnut Block Cottages New Zealand
It was even more stunning at sunset!
Walnut Block Cottages New Zealand
We wandered through the vines on the property.
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And made some furry friends:)
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During our walk, a horse galloped over to greet us. 
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I'm not kidding - the horse was so friendly. I was in heaven!
Walnut Block Cottages New Zealand
The cottage was modern and very comfortable.
Walnut Block Cottages New Zealand
The view was the best part! 
Walnut Block Cottages New Zealand
Cheers! We hope to come back one day.
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Beyond Voyage is Featured in IM Boston! 

8/3/2015

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Check out our interview with the online magazine IM Boston! 
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Photos from Auckland's Stunning Scenic Drive

7/22/2015

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While almost every drive in New Zealand is scenic, the road named Scenic Drive in New Zealand's Auckland region definitely lives up to its name. This road runs through the Waitakere ranges west of Aukland and allows access to some of the world's grandest beaches. 

Scenic Drive is about a half hour drive from Auckland city. From there, travel north or south and turn off the road to see various wide beaches against a backdrop of green mountains. We spent a day visiting Karekare, Piha and Bethell's beaches, returning to Auckland city in the late afternoon.  

If you are ever in Auckland for a few days, I highly recommend allotting at least one day to this drive. To backup my claim, here are a few of our photos:
Bethell's Beach:
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Karekare Beach:
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Piha Beach:
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Two Week New Zealand Itinerary

7/13/2015

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Imagine a land green & blue, with massive mountains, deep fjords and dramatic beaches. The people are friendly, the coffee is strong , the tourists seek thrills and shoes are optional.  When you first step foot in New Zealand the air smells distinctly sweet, perhaps a sign that you've arrived in Mother Nature's darling creation.

I'm dedicating the next few posts to New Zealand because I have received several inquiries about it lately and realized that BV is severely lacking coverage on one of my favorite destinations!  

Chris and I spent two weeks in New Zealand a few years ago over the New Years holiday.  We flew Air New Zealand from Boston to Auckland (connecting in Los Angeles) and it was, hands down one of the best flying experiences.  We spent our layover in LA, outdoors on Santa Monica pier and then slept most of the eleven hour journey to Auckland.  It was one of the few times I woke up refreshed and rested after an international flight. 

We traveled at a fast pace on this trip and used air, ferry and rental car in order to see as much as possible in two weeks.  I highly recommend driving around New Zealand as it's the perfect way to take in all the dramatic scenery.  One doesn't mind driving long distances when the open road looks like this:
Road to Te Anau New Zealand
Our Two Week Itinerary:
Day 1: Drove from Auckland airport to Paihia. Cruised the Bay of Islands in the afternoon.
Day 2: Left for Auckland stopping  at Whangarei falls  on the way. Explored Auckland on foot. 
Day 3: Scenic Drive to Bethell's, Piha and Karekare beaches. Devonport in the evening.
Day 4: Flight to Queenstown; Explored Queenstown, Gondola & Mountain Luge.
Day 5: Queenstown - Nevis Canyon Swing , Shotover Jet Ride and Arrowtown gold mining town. 
Day 6: Drove to Te Anau and hiked part of the Kepler Track. 
Day 7: Te Anau - Milford Sound Boat Cruise & Observatory.
Day 8: Drove back to Queenstown & flew to Christchurch. 
Day 9: Explored Christchurch. Drove through Arthur's Pass, Pancake Rocks arring in Nelson.
Day 10: Hiked Abel Tasman Park all day. 
Day 11: Drove to Picton (Marlborough wine country). Visited vineyards. 
Day 12: Scenic drive along northern coast. 
Day 13: Ferry from Picton to Wellington; dined in Wellington. 
Day 14: Explored Wellington. Departed in the afternoon for the US. 
Highlights:
Our favorite parts of this trip were Queenstown, Abel Tasman Park, Marlborough Wine Country and the Scenic Drive on the North Island. 
Queenstown, New Zealand
Queenstown
Walnut Block Vineyard, Blenheim, Marlborough New Zealand
Walnut Block Vineyards 
What We Would Have Changed: 
The only thing we would have changed about this trip was Christchurch.  We would have skipped it, mainly because the city was empty resulting in an eerie, Twighlight Zone kind of scene. Christchurch had suffered several damaging earthquakes prior to our visit so both residents and businesses had abandoned it for safer cities in the country.  Despite being ridden with cracks and neglected buildings, it was a very pretty city, with well maintained gardens and parks. However, it was not worth going out of your way for a visit.  Also, it's still hazardous.  Just two months after our visit, Christchurch experienced a terrible earthquake that toppled the steeple of the iconic stone cathedral in town center. 
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Christchurch cathedral during our visit in early January 2011
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Christchurch cathedral just a couple months after our visit. Image courtesy of REX.
Instead of Christchurch, I would have driven up the west coast to Franz Josef Glacier.  If you don't fancy long scenic drives, then fly from Queenstown to Nelson and spend the extra day on the north coast of the South Island.

North or South Island
When planning a trip to New Zealand, people often ask me whether to go to the north or south island.  I say visit both if you have the time, since you are traveling pretty far to get there.  But if you MUST choose stick with south.  The South Island offers more landscape diversity - the fjords of Milford Sound, mountains of Queenstown, beaches of Abel Tasman and vineyards of Marlborough. All different. All stunning.

Stay tuned for more coverage on New Zealand including some of my favorite pictures!
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    Eva has been traveling for 15+ years, including an 8 month journey around the world.  

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